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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The birds being thrown at our club have the slightest lean to them out of the house. hard to explain kinda but tilted a little. Is there an adjustment that would correct this problem? I'm gonna try finding a manual online but looking for someone familiar. Thanks
 

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The birds being thrown at our club have the slightest lean to them out of the house. hard to explain kinda but tilted a little. Is there an adjustment that would correct this problem? I'm gonna try finding a manual online but looking for someone familiar. Thanks

Go here; http://www.pattrap.com/ select the 'Manuals" tab at the top and select your particular machine series. Select ; http://www.pattrap.com/technical-notes-and-instructions/ for troubleshooting and tech updates.

Don T
 

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There is a pillow block adjustment that sets behind the Gray Control box at the back of the trap. If I remember right its' a 1 inch nut. It helps to have two guys and a short 2X4 to move it.

There are some targets on the market that lean more than the trap adjustment can take care of.
If you have those targets, you have to shim the frame. Ours took another 5/8 of an inch . Front and back on the right side .

Good luck,
Ajax
 

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The birds being thrown at our club have the slightest lean to them out of the house. hard to explain kinda but tilted a little. Is there an adjustment that would correct this problem? I'm gonna try finding a manual online but looking for someone familiar. Thanks
Check the rubber on the throwing arm. If it is glazed or badly worn you might not be getting enough "spin" on the clay target.
 

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99Max is correct from my experience. I keep a spare throw arm so I can chage out the arm with the worn rubber and send it to Pat for a new rubber.
 

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try sanding the rubber on the arm with a block of wood & 180 grit paper to take away some of the glaze off the rubber . When I do this to our traps it seems to put more spin on the bird & improves the fight .
 

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try sanding the rubber on the arm with a block of wood & 180 grit paper to take away some of the glaze off the rubber . When I do this to our traps it seems to put more spin on the bird & improves the fight .
[QUOTE = "Neil Winston long ago"]

Ron and Roman and I did two sessions testing the effect of sanding the arm on target spin - using a pair of Pat Traps, one with years of use, the other with months since having anything done to it.

1. The protocol was to use a 600 frames-a-second video and marked targets; several before sanding. Several targets were thrown for the video camera.

2. Then the arm was sanded with 320 sandpaper stapled to the handle of a hockey stick, the way we do it in Minnesota.

3. Then targets were again tracked with high-speed video. It was easy to count frames between the appearance of the marks in the same place and a little math gave us the RPM of the targets, about 2000.

Result:

There was no measurable change in target spin resulting from sanding the arm of these Pat Traps.

An even more interesting result is discusses in the following thread, as well as photos to explain how the above-cited experiments were done.

http://www.trapshooters.com/threads/how-much-do-targets-spin-with-videos-updated.124055/

The finding of that test, that the spin of targets does not measurably slow on their way from the house to the stake, came as a complete surprise to all of us. It also let us drop the 7 1/2's we were told we needed for the second shot in doubles because the target's spin had slowed down, and revert to 8's and enjoy the greater pellet count without fear of hit, but unbroken, second birds.

Yours in Sport,

Neil [/QUOTE]

Read Neil's post quoted above .
Don T
 
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We had the same problem Ajax is right. Fortunately our trap is mounted on four bolts which stick up with a nut that can be adjusted to raise or lower the mounting frame.
 

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This is the problem with Neil Winston, Flashmax. He actually does tests which destroy the myths of club house conventional wisdom. They that hold those myths to be self evident just hate that.
 

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This is the problem with Neil Winston, Flashmax. He actually does tests which destroy the myths of club house conventional wisdom. They that hold those myths to be self evident just hate that.

Before one can stand on the shoulders of Giants one must first take note that they exist and then do a lot of climbing to get to those shoulders. I find that extensive reading on whatever subject I am currently interested makes those 'club house myths' a LOT easier to dismiss and with reference to testing it is a lot easier to show why the myths are myths. But there are those that no amount of counter evidence will convince, which leads to Neil's; " You can lead them to water but ...." comment on another thread.

Don T
 

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The birds being thrown at our club have the slightest lean to them out of the house. hard to explain kinda but tilted a little. Is there an adjustment that would correct this problem? I'm gonna try finding a manual online but looking for someone familiar. Thanks
Did you find a good fix or get it fixed?

This is the problem with Neil Winston, Flashmax. He actually does tests which destroy the myths of club house conventional wisdom. They that hold those myths to be self evident just hate that.
What myths are self evident and or was destroyed?

Before one can stand on the shoulders of Giants one must first take note that they exist and then do a lot of climbing to get to those shoulders. I find that extensive reading on whatever subject I am currently interested makes those 'club house myths' a LOT easier to dismiss and with reference to testing it is a lot easier to show why the myths are myths. But there are those that no amount of counter evidence will convince, which leads to Neil's; " You can lead them to water but ...." comment on another thread.

Don T
What myth was presented that was quashed by the test posted?

I will assume it was the post by happyshooter.

try sanding the rubber on the arm with a block of wood & 180 grit paper to take away some of the glaze off the rubber . When I do this to our traps it seems to put more spin on the bird & improves the fight .
Is this the myth, using 180 grit paper on the arm, that was broken by the test given? I am not saying it is true, just that the test given does not break it. Without knowing the coefficient of friction prior to sanding any difference may not be noted. Lets say that the coefficient was the same prior to sanding with 320 grit as after. Is it possible using 180 grit be different?

Again, I am not saying 180 is better, worse or the same just that the items mentioned and used are different. I could go into why the ending to the test noted may not be true, or is it, hmmm. That is for another time.

Shoot well.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
We are gonna look at the band on the throwing arm today. It is probably a few years old and may need replaced. We may add washers to either side to change the height to get them squared away. If u aren't a regular trap shooter you wouldn't really even notice it but the regular shooters can tell, I'll let you guys know
 

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All I can say in regard to the original poster's question is that from my experience maintaining a Pat for many years is that a worn throw arm rubber will throw targets that curl. This may or may not be the O
P's problem. If it is, a new rubber will fix it. I suppose that's why Pat makes them. They wear out.
 

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Level the base, not the launch plate. Might it be an optical illusion due to the sun? Ours look tilted in the morning but level out in the afternoon. Just a thought.
 

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Welcome to the "Pat Trap" world! I've never understood the Pat Trap craze other than the 5 sec. it takes to convert to double's. Target presentation when condition's are less than idea leaves a shooter scratching their heads.
 

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I used to buy the rubber for the arm from them and replace it myself.
 
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