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Discussion Starter #1
I was working with a 220 volt, 1 1/2 HP combination 12" disk, 6X48" belt sander. I wasn't forcing it or anything when suddenly the motor blew. Smelly smoke came out from underneath but no flames. The belt and disk still turn freely, nothing binding, but the motor won't run. What to do? New sander or should I try to replace the motor?

Ed Yanchok
 

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Ed.....It's time for a new motor. Shop tools take a pretty good beating and most shop tools have "open" motors. They aren't sealed against the enviornment and collect everything that gets sucked through them. Sooner or later this airbourne "junk" insulates the stator to the point it overheats and, well, you know, you described it. I had a 150 hp air compressor motor decide to do that several weeks ago but the results were a little more dramatic than that. It was running on 480 volt 3 phase at about 180 amps when it went but I got flames, fire, bright blue lights and just had a wonderful time of it. Call Gene Boston and he'll fix you up with a new one.

Jere Cossaboom
 

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It depends on how old the unit is, I would think. Is the motor built-in the unit?? or is it seperate and run by belt. If the later you can take the motor only to a shop and have the motors, cooper wires inside around housing REWOUND. It is not to pricey and they may have some rebuilt motors there you could buy as well. If motor is built-into the unit you can still call a electric motor repair shop and see if they work on them. I would try to have it fixed if possible. Unless disc. sander and belt sander are in poor condition. My 2 cents. Break-em all. Jeff
 

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Ahhh, you made the magic smoke! Exciting wasn't it....but not as exciting as Jere's. Just curious, for the record, what brand of motor and what was the country of origin??
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It was a "Grizzly" model G1183. Although everything spins and turns freely but when i turn on the switch, all I hear is a hum.

Ed Yanchok
 

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According to the above website, the numbers stated are for the whole tool.

Parts diagram shown. Take it apart and see what fried. You need to check the coils with an ohmmeter.

since the stator is $112.50, an aftermarket motor may be cheaper, if one can be fitted. W. W. Grainger is a good source if local resources fail you.



HM
 

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Ed, If its humming ..first check the voltage to see if in fact you do have the 220 volts. But if it threw smoke its most likely shot. Motors built today are made as throw aways...New one is in order.
 

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I had a motor that was runing just fine for the morning but when we cut it off for lunch and then tried to turn it back on and it just smoked.
 

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All good advice above. Bottom line is unless it's a very small repair facility with low overhead, the motor has to be fairly large before it is economical to rewind it. Depending on where you are at, that can start at 50hp or higher. The 150hp mentioned above can definately be repaired for alot less than new. Small motors are boat anchors, unless they are built into a special housing by the oem that isn't replaceable off the shelf. Even then you have to look at the cost of buying a new tool vs the repair price. By the way, Baldor who was mentioned above is the only manufacturer of motors left where their complete line is made in the US. Everyone else is either completly or partialy made off shore. That's not saying the off shore motors are bad, in fact some are of very high quality. Magic smoke in not desireable to see coming out of a motor. When we are shooting targets, that's a whole different story!

Jim Simon
Janda Electric Motor Service
Cedar Rapids, Ia
Account Manager
 

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This unit is integral and can not be replaced by other than original parts.

YOu need to determine what part of the motor, (stator or armature) is defective and get a new one. the website says $112.50. It also says you have a 5 hundred dollar tool there.

you may want a pro to fix it, as the fasteners may be difficult to loosen.

do what you have to.

HM
 

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I Irrigate with very large, 25 to 100 hp,3 PH electric motors and have a couple give up the ghost annually. Take them to competent electric motor shop and have it re-wound. That costs about a quarter of the price for a new one and will last just as long. When the big ones go they make one hell of a pop. FD
 

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If you can get your old one rebuilt it would probably be a lot cheaper than buying a new one ... I have done this with the pool pump motors and it cost me less than 1/2 of what they want for new ones and they actually last longer once rebuilt ... WPT ... (YAC) ...
 

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Molon Labe
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Was doing control work at a Union Carbide air separation plant one time when a 17,500 HP centrifical compressor motor went to ground, running on 4160 Volts. Kinda like a Kiss concert!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys for all of the information and suggestions. I'm gonna take it apart and see if I can spot the problem, otherwise I'll be shopping this afternoon.

Ed Yanchok
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wireguy had it right. The starter capasitor is totally burned out/blown up.

Ed Yanchok
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I called Grizzly and I'll have the capacitor tomorrow. Here's the old one. Even I could figure out what was wrong with this unit.

Ed Yanchok


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WE blew a 1000hp 2300V3Ph once. It was impressive. That was the largest we blew. Blew several smaller ones. I was a IE in a tire plant at that time.
Sonny
 

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While we're on the subject of high voltage and high amperage electric motors, I've
always been curious as to what kind of numbers your looking at in a diesel electric locomotive. I once spoke briefly to an engineer who said when they're pulling a load they watch the amp meter real close.
 

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Ed - I hope the capacitor takes care of the problem. It might be possible that a short in the coils or something else in the motor caused the capacitor to blow. The one you showed us really blew. Look carefully for any other problems. It would be frustrating to put a new capacitor on the motor and watch it smoke.

Pat Ireland
 
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