I reload STS for singles and doubles and Nitro hulls for handicap. I find no difference in the hull life between either of these. I can usually reload them at least 8-10 times with no problems at all.....Dan Thome (Trap2)
If you're splitting Nitro hulls, I'd bet dollars to doughnuts you're pressures are up where no man has gone before. Perhaps you're loading Nitros to distinguish handicap reloads and the STS for 16yd shells? Might be the reason you're getting more out of a STS hull.
I am not 100% sure this has an impact, but listing the reloading press you use might help zero in on the issue. I was using a Mec 9000G with an AutoMate power unit, and was having both Nitro and STS hulls failing what I thought was very early. Now that I am using a P/W, I have not had to toss out a hull. I am early in the reloading game, and don't have any hulls with more than 2 reloads on them, and they all look like new at this point.
I did have splitting, both in the crimp seams and the sides with Mec, and that was with once fired hulls. I thought it was a great press, especially for the money, but did notice that issue early on. I don't think it was isolated to just Remington, as the new AA's were doing the same thing. As usual, the old AA's just kept on ticking for me, even though they were ugly with old Red Dot residue all over them.
Since Nitro and Green STS hulls are identical except for the color of the dye...either the Greens are getting a light load and the Nitros a handicap (over pressure) load......or you've gotten into a bad run of Nitro hulls.
p.s. Another possibility would be a weakening of the Nitro hull due to pressures on the initial firing.
"The Gun Club hulls reload longer for me than the Gold Nito's. Same load: 1 ounce of shot 16.8 gr Clays and a Fig.8 wad, Winchester Primer."
The Fig. 8 is used with 1-1/8 oz loads. May be causing some issues. I load Nitro 27's with 20.3 International, Fig. 8 wad, 1-1/8oz with Remington primers. Hulls generally go 8-10 times. I throw the longshot hulls away when I shoot them. John
I've had a smattering of those split Nitros but not enough to be concerned; none with the green STS hulls to my memory. Like Sir Thome, I will shoot them both for 10, 12, or more times only tossing them when the crimp area shows likelihood of failure; pin holes or worse. Now, a buddy and I have discussed the opinion that the green hulls last longer than the gold hulls and we both agree there "seems" to be such a situation. My greens are weenies and discolor quickly because of the low pressure and the golds are loaded for handicap but are still within the pressure area of most 2 3/4 DE loads of 1 1/8 oz stuff. It has occurred to me that the lighter color of the golds simply "appear" in worse shape but I'm not really buying that. I DO believe the STS green hulls will last a few loads longer than the Nitro hulls....breakemall...Bob Dodd
I agree with Bob Dodd.. the greens seem to reload better and last longer. The "old" Nitro formula was 21.0 grains of International with a Remington Fig. 8 wad and 1 1/8 oz of shot. I measured these at 1,310 ft./sec. They were a great handicap load. The Nitro was changed two more times until they settled on their current power. I personally don't like them as well as the Super Handicap AA. Now a reload that works very well is 20.0 grains of International in a green or gold hull with a Blue Duster wad. Never had a gold or green split on me ... the grey and red AA's will split. If you have had your forcing cones worked on there may be too much room for expansion = split. Fred
I've been shooting 27's and golds with no problems. The same as everyone else 7-10 maybe even 11 loads. How about wad pressure? I have mine set up with no pressure and am loading with a MECjr. 16 grains Red Dot, Claybuster 1100-12 wad,1 oz. 8's these ar 16's. And basicly the same for Handycap except for 17 Grains Red Dot and 1 oz. 8's shot. But it looks like if those pictures are yours, that you are getting a burn through from the inside. Might agree with B.D. to. Hulls might have a week spot. Does this happen with them all as you shoot them or is it just one ever so offten? Rich.(inPeoria, Az.)
Eddie, a few years ago Shotgun Sports magazine did an article on ballistics of reloads over the life of the shell. Their findings showed that pressures actually go up as the hull gets older. The reason stated was the heat roughening of the interior of the hull. I don't recall for sure but I think they said around 5 -7 reloads the advertised pressure was around normal. After that it went up even though the crimps looked weak. They concluded the wad held a tighter grip on the rough sides of the 7-10 reloads hulls. Ever since then, I have kept my reload pressures around 8500 - 9000 and then toss them after 6 reloads. Just keeps me feeling safer over a few dollars worth of hulls. Someone here might know the article or have better info for you.
I was curious if maybe the wad he is using is too small for the hull or static electricity is keeping the powder against the side of the hull when the wad is inserted. When fired, it is trapped and burns a hole in the side of the hull. I have a handful of AA's that have done the same thing but this is out of 10000 hulls I reloaded this winter. They look exactly the same as the burnt nitro hull in this thread. I suspect this is the case because I use a purple PC wad for my HS AA hulls. BTW, I use Solo 1000 with 1 oz of shot.
After reading thru this list, I started looking over my Rem. hulls. The old style Rem. smooth sided hulls seem to last almost forever where the STS greenies seem to be burnt thru at about six or seven loads. I spotted five or six examples just sorting thru the hulls on the top of the barrel. All were loaded with Solo 1000, and one ounce loads. Who says newer is better?