[postmastertim]

https://press.hornady.com/assets/pcthumbs/tmp/1410995252-366-Auto-Shotshell-Reloader-Instructions--2018-06-081528913363.pdf

Page 20, is it the pivot arm? Part #85?

 

[phatkaw]

https://press.hornady.com/assets/pcthumbs/tmp/1410995252-366-Auto-Shotshell-Reloader-Instructions--2018-06-081528913363.pdf

Page 20, is it the pivot arm? Part #85?

It's the opposing part of that...
Check out the triangle thing with the hole in it sticking up under that.
The piece that has the bolt and bearing going through it. Parts # 25, 12, 99, 93 and 28.
The diagram shows the newer base that the piece that i broke is casted right in.

 

[phatkaw]

Tim, thanks for the link !
If you look at page 12 you can see the thing right in the middle of the base. If you check my picture out you should be able to imagine what the difference is between the two generations...

 

[HSLDS]

I doubt that can be repaired - wrong looking metal for welding.

The good news is that it isn't a hard part to manufacture - you'd need a mill and a welder and an afternoon to play...

 

[phatkaw]

I doubt that can be repaired - wrong looking metal for welding.

The good news is that it isn't a hard part to manufacture - you'd need a mill and a welder and an afternoon to play...

I was thinking about just drilling a hole in the base and through the broken thingy and just bolting it together. (I'd need some washers in between the two parts) If the timing is off, I can hawg out the hole one way or the other ?

 

[phatkaw]

I doubt that can be repaired - wrong looking metal for welding.

The good news is that it isn't a hard part to manufacture - you'd need a mill and a welder and an afternoon to play...

If they would've used steel in the first place it would never break...

 

[phatkaw]

Actually, it looks like it could be made out of a chunk of I-beam.
Depending of course if a guy could find a similar size and thickness...

 

[Busted Ithaca]

Ok,I acquired this old Pacific 366 yesterday and the thing in the back that is part of the auto-advance broke as soon as I put it back to where I thought it should be.
When I first got it home that part was crooked in 2 different directions and definitely not in the right place.
I barely put any tension on the set screws when it 'let go' it was already ready to snap off...
My other 366s' doo-hickey is cast directly into the base and adjusts by loosening a lock-nut and turning a screw one way or the other.
I think I've got a plan on how to fix it.
I haven't seen one of these older models with the 'doo-hickey' like this one. This is definitely a weak link and I'm sure they redesigned it right away?
Anyone else break that thing and replace or fix it?

That does look like a broken doo-hickey imho

 

[phatkaw]

Oh yea, this is the old pull-pawl, not the push-pawl type of advance... (yuck)

 

[HSLDS]

I think that small you'd more likely find some 'C' channel steel and need to weld an extension on the one side. That, or plate and angle iron.

If you do go the route of drilling and bolting might I suggest you epoxy the broken piece back on first (not as a structural thing) - to help determine the correct alignment - you really don't want to 'worry' the hole bigger than just fits the bolt. You'd be introducing an error to the process... wobble is bad in repetitive stress situations.

 

[jeff348]

Ok,I acquired this old Pacific 366 yesterday and the thing in the back that is part of the auto-advance broke as soon as I put it back to where I thought it should be.
When I first got it home that part was crooked in 2 different directions and definitely not in the right place.
I barely put any tension on the set screws when it 'let go'. It was already ready to snap off...
My other 366s' doo-hickey is cast directly into the base and adjusts by loosening a lock-nut and turning a screw one way or the other.
I think I've got a plan on how to fix it.
I haven't seen one of these older models with the 'doo-hickey' like this one. This is definitely a weak link and I'm sure they redesigned it right away?
Anyone else break that thing and replace or fix it?
View attachment 1732342

Just call Hornady and ask if they got any do-hickeys in stock. Just make sure they don't send you a whatchamacallit by mistake.

 

[Slowpoke Rodriguez]

I'm sure they redesigned it right away?

That was part of the retrofit auto-advance. I always thought those socket head cap screws bolted into the base casting, not clamped the upright for the eccentric bearing to the base casting. You can adjust the timing by adjusting the bolt that the bearing is mounted on.
The redesign cast that part integral to the base casting.

 

[phatkaw]

If you do go the route of drilling and bolting might I suggest you epoxy the broken piece back on first (not as a structural thing) - to help determine the correct alignment

^^^ Eggzacktly what i had in mind.

 

[Dustydoo]

If a new one is not available, it can be TIG welded

 

[AAtrap]

Oh yea, this is the old pull-pawl, not the push-pawl type of advance... (yuck)

Call Hornady and ask to speak to Todd Knect.

 

[phatkaw]

Steve, I'm gonna run it for a little while as a pull-pawl just to see how bad it sucks.
Then I'll probably end up doing a 'do it yourself modification' that I've read about while doing a million searches here for 366s...
If I screw it up then I'll call Todd.

 

[phatkaw]

If a new one is not available, it can be TIG welded

I'm thinking it's die-cast ?
Can that be TIGged?

 

[HSLDS]

Looks like pot metal - can't be welded...

 

[320090T]

Make a replacement piece with several pieces of angle iron bolted together.