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I just acquired a new AR-15 weapon in .223 (my first). Two Questions:

1. The trigger pull seems very heavy. I know these things aren't tack drivers but is it possible/advisable to lighten the trigger pull ?

2. Where is a good source for affordable, reasonably quality ammo in bulk ?

Thanks
 

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Not tack drivers??? You've been reading the '60's wive tails....
Find a good AR smith and have him fix you up.
 

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AR by it's design can be really accurate out of the box. And it's a great platform for making it a tack driver. Beats any other U.S. military select fire light infantry weapons.

Remember AR is a tactical weapon to start, combat trigger can be heavy.
There're trigger kits you can instal to get good trigger pull, you just have to find the one you like.
 

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I've used the affordable ALG nickel boron coated trigger groups. It feels a lot smoother but won't really lighten the pull any. I beleive its close to the spikes tactical battle trigger.

Cheapest brass cased ammo I've found is wolf gold when they are available. Target sports used to have it. Once in a while prvi is cheap when you can find em through Grafs.

Most likely won't get the most accuracy if you are using cheap bulk ammo.

I've had good luck with my reloads using sierra bullets though. I quit loading 223 for awhile after smashing my finger while seating a bullet.
 

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Timney makes a very nice drop in trigger for the AR. I put the 4 lb trigger in my Bushmaster. No slop, very short travel.
 

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I just acquired a new AR-15 weapon in .223 (my first). Two Questions:

1. The trigger pull seems very heavy. I know these things aren't tack drivers but is it possible/advisable to lighten the trigger pull ?

2. Where is a good source for affordable, reasonably quality ammo in bulk ?

Thanks
I really doubt it's a 223. There are out there but they are not very common. Forget what it says on the receiver. The actual chamber is stamped on the barrel. 223 and 5.56 are not the same. Firing military 5.56 ammo in a 223 chamber can cause bad karma. Firing 223 in a 5.56 is not a big issue.

And.....your accuracy has a lot to do with what twist the barrel is. It's stamped on it also.
 

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I have a CMC Flat Competition trigger in mine and love it but if I had to do it over again I would probably go Geissele like V10 said. If you want tack driver use some Hornady Match Grade rounds and you will not be disappointed.
 

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I really doubt it's a 223. There are out there but they are not very common. Forget what it says on the receiver. The actual chamber is stamped on the barrel. 223 and 5.56 are not the same. Firing military 5.56 ammo in a 223 chamber can cause bad karma. Firing 223 in a 5.56 is not a big issue.

And.....your accuracy has a lot to do with what twist the barrel is. It's stamped on it also.
You have to be kidding me. This guy is looking for info on an AR, and you tell him what gun he bought, ( even though you never saw it) and barrel twist has a lot to do with accuracy ?

You can't help but troll, no matter where you crawl at any given time.

New guy is spot on. The trigger has more to do with accuracy than any other aspect of a rifle ( assuming it is functioning properly and the ammo/optics/sights are good )

Barrel twist = which weight bullet will stabilize.

Trigger weight and shooter determine accuracy.

Don't you have a piece of American history to bad mouth and destroy ?

And you claim to be a shooter. Joke.
 

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You have to be kidding me. This guy is looking for info on an AR, and you tell him what gun he bought, ( even though you never saw it) and barrel twist has a lot to do with accuracy ?

You can't help but troll, no matter where you crawl at any given time.

New guy is spot on. The trigger has more to do with accuracy than any other aspect of a rifle ( assuming it is functioning properly and the ammo/optics/sights are good )

Barrel twist = which weight bullet will stabilize.

Trigger weight and shooter determine accuracy.

Don't you have a piece of American history to bad mouth and destroy ?

And you claim to be a shooter. Joke.
Are you for real?

What's the trigger got to do with the rifles ability to shoot accuracy? You can put the best most expensive trigger in a run of the mill AR and it will not affect it's accuracy one bit. Who ever told you that is a fool.

Yes the barrel twist does have a lot to do with accuracy, If you don't your an idiot.

What's the AR got to go with American history in the op's question? You are a acting like a historical jackass.

Your comment that trigger weight and shooter determine accuracy is just plain stupid. If it were correct there would be no reason to use quality ammo in the proper twist, and chamber. The trigger is the last thing you need to worry about.

I sure hope you don't find many fools to listen to you.

The AR has been around longer than some of you have been out of diapers. What do you think the shooters used before the boutique triggers were invented. A lot of records were set many years before the drop ins were even a passing thought. They used tuned up triggers and they can still be shot accurately with a tuned up stock trigger. The drop ins were developed to maximize trigger pulls to skirt around trigger pull restrictions. Get your facts straight.

Absolute scoring accuracy takes a superior trigger, but it's not what makes a gun Accurate. A sloppy AR is still a sloppy AR no matter what trigger you put in it. The trigger has absolutely nothing to do with the accuracy of the gun.

Mr Mainus, you don't have a clue what your talking about and your attack on me was uncalled for. Keep on giving these guys your stupid advice. And yes shooting 223 w/ a 40 grain bullet in a 5.56 with a 1/7 twist will never drive tacks. If all you want is MOP, that's minute of puddle, then you may be right.

FYI, with rifle shooting it's Bullets, Brass, and Barrels. The trigger is just the trigger.
 

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40 grainers in a 1:7" twist generally have one of two problems.

They can blow up from too high of RPM. Especially from a bore that has tall lands that engrave deeper into the thin jacket. The ones that we found would blow up in a 1:7" twist .223 also blew up in my 1885 Single shot in 22-250 with a 1:14" twist. Their jackets were just too thin and had to be limited for RPM and velocity. They worked best in a 1:10" to 1:12" 223.

Or at long range they land body on instead of nose on, and start veering to the side. They can group decently, but don't properly expand and the scope windage must compensate for the yaw.

overstabilized.jpg


The exaggerated illustration above shows the yaw starts early in flight, but from a practical field standpoint this makes little difference out to around 200 yards, give or take, for varmint hunting Beyond 200 yards the bullets can group consistently, just not at the point of aim, and not point on. The yaw starts happening as the bullet starts coming down on its flight path and increases as more body is presented.
 

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I just acquired a new AR-15 weapon in .223 (my first). Two Questions:

1. The trigger pull seems very heavy. I know these things aren't tack drivers but is it possible/advisable to lighten the trigger pull ?

2. Where is a good source for affordable, reasonably quality ammo in bulk ?

Thanks
Trigger:
I've shot several AR15s, and as with most all rifles a good trigger can contribute a lot to accurate results.

Geissele makes several premium match grade triggers and has a companion company that makes very good "economy" versions. Check this video by Geissele:

Timney also makes quality, reliable triggers. There are others as well, and you can get reasonably competent, less argumentative advice over on ar15.com.

Ammo:
Can't give you a reliable source for cheap bulk ammo, particularly in 223. Again, AR15.com (or gunbot.net or google) may help more with that.

Choosing the right ammo is important too. If your barrel is stamped "223", it is not a good idea to use 5.56 milsurp or commercial ammo. It will fit your chamber fine, but the higher pressure permitted is likely to push and/or exceed the limits of your (oversimplified) slightly tighter chamber. If your barrel is stamped "5.56" or is a "Wylde" chamber you can shoot either type safely.

Barrel twist in and of itself has nothing to do with your rifle's accuracy.

However, the twist (and to a much lesser extent) the barrel length will determine what weight bullets your Ar15 is likely to properly stabilize and have a chance to shoot accurately. This article (http://www.gunsandammo.com/ammo/pair-barrel-twist-rates-ammo/) will get you started. You will encounter a lot of opinions on the lightest/heaviest extremes a certain twist will stabilize. Part of this is likely due to the fact that some barrels aren't EXACTLY the twist stated, different barrel lengths yield different muzzle velocities, and finally some shooters confuse poor accuracy with failure to stabilize.

The AR15 is hella fun to shoot, can be very accurate ( eg I have 3/4 MOA and 1.25 MOA AR15s), and you will go through a lot of ammo. But you already know that :) GLHF and stay safe.
 

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For ammo, Cheaperthandirt.com and Bulkammo.com have worked for me. In my Bushmaster, I run .223 Tulammo steel cased that works fine for me
 

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I wouldn't buy anything from "Cheaper than Dirt" if they had the last ammo on Earth. They are one of the worst price gouging companies out there and helped to facilitate the screw your neighbor craze after the Sandy Hook massacres. They can eat dog crap and die in my opinion.
 

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Geissele does make the best trigger but the Rock River National Match is also very good. I use the Rock River ones myself. I'm not in the big dick contest here but I know what I'm doing when it comes to AR rifles. Bulk ammo isn't the best bet when it comes to accuracy, just about any other bullet than the 55 or 62 grain FMJ will shoot fairly well. The Hornady 55 FMJ does seem to be the best of that group though. Hand loading is your friend with the AR, you can make very accurate ammo for less than bulk prices. I currently load match ammo for under $.18 a round. I also shoot bullets as light as 40 grains through an 8 twist barrel without issue. You don't need fancy coatings or machine gun grade parts. I've built quite a few parts guns with dirt cheap parts - except for the barrel - that all shoot very well.
 

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I wouldn't buy anything from "Cheaper than Dirt" if they had the last ammo on Earth. They are one the worst price gouging companies out there and helped to facilitate the screw your neighbor craze after the Sandy Hook massacres. They can eat dog crap and die in my opinion.
CtD worked fine for me when I order .223. And out of the other sites I checked, they have the cheapest prices
 

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funny...all of you forgot to ask him at what amazing distances the gun is going to be fired at.

bet its under 100yds. and well, at that distance...NOTHING matters.

i shot on the navy rifle team. i shot rack grade to match grade guns.

bottom line....a match trigger helps in match shooting. a match trigger is 4lbs.

pull isnt critical. CREEP is.
you can have an 8lb trigger; but, if it lets off CRISP....youll make the shot.

so i guess i'll be the test dummy and ask....

how far are you going to shoot this gun?

next, i wonder if he has a 3 stage usgi trigger in it? you vets know of that, remember? it helped keep 3rd bursts in order? and it had 3 different trigger pull weights? depending where it ended up?
 

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The manufacturer, the model, the barrel, or is it a parts gun.....would be of importance. Not all AR's are equal. There's many sub 500.00 guns as there are 3-4000.00 ones.

Things were much simpler with the M1-14 series guns. The bad thing with them was if they had a turbo boost, after the first shot it was a struggle to hang on to it, and usually quit firing at the 20th shot.

Speaking of controlling 2-3 shots, I've seen guys that can shoot M60's single fire, at will. Those were the days.
 

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14.8661 square,

I'm beginning to think that some guys have this figured out as far as putting you on ignore.

I'm done arguing with you. I feel bad for anyone who reads your drivel and thinks it's anything but bull$hit.

If you can't understand how a good/bad trigger affects accuracy, you are beyond help.
 
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