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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to replace my hammer springs on my 682X..am currently looking for the best deal out there on them and am gathering info as it seems theres nothing on YouTube...What I'm looking for is the amount of clearance to be allowed between the hammer and the rebounded firing pin before crimping the threaded crimp collar..if anyone knows a good video resource on servicing I'd appreciate a link if you have it...I have the schematics and wondering how often you have them serviced
 

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Adjust the collar so that the rebounded hammer does not allow the firing pin to protrude beyond the face of the receiver. Just a smidgeon in will be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, I think I understand...sort of? Will leaving the pin able to draw back a hair further help with light strikes from hard primers?? I may just let a pro handle this because I would hate to mess up a beautiful gun...currently with the original hammer spring,..drying firing onto snap caps the strike on the top barrel doesnt sound as strong or "crisp"...suspect previous owner left in safe with top hammer cocked,..checked firing pin and its return spring and all seems well...have only had trouble with Estates and reloads with Fiocchi primers
 

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"Will leaving the pin able to draw back a hair further help with light strikes from hard primers??".... No.

The weight of a firing pin will rob the energy of the hammer, so allowing the hammer to continue that small amount more will deiver the firing pin to the primer with a little more force.

Because of the weight of the firing pin, some after market shops have started producing titanium firing pins...they have less weight, allowing more transfer of energy from the hammer. Is it really necessary, probably not.

As for the light hits or mis-fires, the new hammer spring assys should cure that.


Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
will let you know how my experience replacing the spring and guide John,..If you're not experiencing a problem I'd just let it be
 
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