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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought a new 1100 and took it to the range today. I must say it was a disappointment. It would not eject. I shot 2 rounds and had to pull the handle on all 50 shots. Is it broken or did I not put it together correctly?

I had heard that the 1100 was soft shooting, but my 870 Classic Trap has less felt recoil than this. I probably should have bought a 391, but I figured it would be simpler to stay in the Remington realm since I already had the nice 870. Quite frustrating for an out of the box Remington. You'd expect this from a lesser brand, but an 1100 ought to work out of the box.
 

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Check the gas ports to make sure nothing is clogging them.
Did you clean out the barrel before shooting?
Check the gas piston and O ring to make sure there are installed properly.
After that run some sporting clay loads through it to verify.
My initial guess would be clogged gas ports.
 

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Have an 1100 user look it over...and be sure to check out the items mentioned by BMC above. 1100s are great - I only own 5 and each one shoots great. Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't think all the parts to the gun are there. According to the picture in the instruction manual, the piston seal, piston, and barrel seal are pictured as separate. When I take the barrel off, there really is only one part that I can pull off. Looks like a 2-piece piston/piston seal, and they are banded together and won't separate. I do not see a barrel seal at all. I'll take it either back to the dealer or to a gunsmith.
 

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Grab your gun and take the barrel off.

The round thingie that slides over the magazine tube has a couple of holes in it that go into the barrel. Be sure those holes are clear and dont have any grease or any other gunk in them.

Now look at the receiver part of the gun. See that rubber o-ring around the magazine tube about 3 or 4 inches down from the end? There should also be an indentation in the magazine tube where the o-ring should be resting in. Check and be sure the o-ring is in that groove and that it aint chipped/nicked/chunked up.

Now put the barrel and forestock back on and get to shooting. I have on more than a few occasions not checked my o-ring when reassembling my gun only to have an ejection/feed problem. Its a quick fix and when you get a chance get yourself a couple of extra o-rings. They do where out and get super gunky/carbony and its easier to just replace it and be done with it. I have also on an older field model 11-87 replaced the o-ring only to have it shoot 3 times and be split, just because its a new o-ring doesnt mean its perfect and will work. Always try to have a couple of extra's in your bag.
 

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You should have all the parts in relation to the barrel and pistone seals. You probably have an old manual. If I remember correctly the new style is a one piece unit plus the O ring.

Derek
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, lumper. That's the problem!! Mine didn't come with an O-ring. Do they usually have them at gun stores or will I have to order from Midway or the manufacturer?
 

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Did you but this shotgun new or used? If it is new go back to the store and have them give you one from another 1100 or 11/87 and get yourself a couple more. If you search this site in the past postings there is mention of a o-ring produced by a company called vortex with the various details for an 1100 o-ring. Vortex o-rings can be purchased at times from most full-line auto parts stores or you could order from Midway or Remington and pay the price for just one o-ring instead of a 1/2 dozen from the autoparts store. It has been said also that the Vortex is a better ring.
 

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Go to your local hardware store. They are 3 for $1.00. Size 33. Or you can go to your local gun shop and pay $7.00 for one. HMB
 

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You can use a plain o-ring. They won't last as long as the viton ones, but it certainly isn't going to fail quickly either. It's surprising how long a plain o-ring lasts.<br>
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The size is 15/16 ID x 1 1/16 OD x 1/16 thick for 12ga.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dealer gave me an O-ring and it is now in place. I'll be at the range bright and early tomorrow to see if that fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Even with the O-ring, it didn't work. It ended up being a lack of oil. I assumed since it was new that they had packed it lubricated, but they did not. It works now, but honestly my 870 trap feels better, shoots better, and by no means has any more recoil.
 

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I found that the 1100's recoil was just a mear slap in the cheek. So by moving ones face in one direction or the other, which ever is comfortable, it would eliminate that problem. As far as having regular recoil and without having to do anything to the gun the 870 had more of a recoil than the 1100. The 1100 seemed to just be a light push to the shoulder. The 870 would let you know it was there but not knock your shoulder off like the Winchester does. Rich. (inPeoria,Az.)
 

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Interesting, because the 1100 is dimensionally the same as the 870, is only a little heavier due to the gas system, and the only real difference in physical feel is the difference in the forends. As for recoil, I went to a Rem gas auto because I can comfortably shoot all day long with it - two or three boxes was all I cared to shoot with my old 870.<br>
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I'm wondering if there is still a problem with your 1100. Many people shoot these guns dry. Where and how much oil did you add?
 

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I shoot 1100TC had the same problem after about 500 rounds. The piston was the one piece like the 11-87 and had a big chip out of it. Called Remington and the sent me the two piece rings no charge. They also told me that a very light coat fo grease on the O-Ring will give a better seal. Never had a malfunction after that now have about 3-4,000 rounds through it and love the gun.
 

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Take your 1100 back to the store and get your money back. Then go find an older one with the step rib barrel. Also make sure you get one with the 2 piece gas rings. I have one that I bought in 1970's Also bought a extra skeet barrel. I have shot thousands of rounds through mine. Still have the original O-ring. But I clean my after every outing. Even if I only shoot 50 practice. Take it all apart except the trigger. ( but do the trigger once or twice a year) Spray the mag tube with WD-40 (I know some of you hate the stuff) but it works for me. Wipe off the excess. Spray the gas rings and o-ring and wipe them too. Make sure the two gas port are free of crud. Not sure of the drill bit size but you can twist one of the correct size with your fingers to clean out the ports. Also I know some people say shoot it "wet" that is with lots of lube on the mag tube. I have not and mine works fine. re-assemble and go shoot.
mike t
 

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I do pretty much the procedure Mike posted, but I never use WD-40 on a firearm. I use Breakfree spray and liquid. Spray when it's cold out, liquid when it's hot. Also, I put a film on the mag tube and inside the action sleeve. Not dripping wet, but a good film. This helps keep fouling softer and easier to clean off. Without the film, the base of the coat of fouling gets hard and crusty, and is more difficult to remove.<br>
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I don't take the trigger group apart. Just clean it once a year then lube it with Breakfree and air blow the excess off.<br>
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Make sure the gaps in the gas rings, for either type you have, are 180 degrees apart, or excess gas may be bled off, resulting in unreliable cycling.<br>
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The inside of the action only requires a thin film to prevent rust. There is enough deliberate clearance built into everything that lube is not required. Too much lube will attract dirt and debris, and can gum things up.<br>
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Texas Yankee mentions having to clean around 500 rounds. Depending on the powder in use, and how much, cleaing will have to be done between 400 and 700 rounds, with 500-600 being average.
 
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