Had the same problem with mine. It's especially noticeable if you need a longer LOP. Called Vern and got the figure 8 type brace that they make. It works very well but costs another $50 plus shipping.
Oth
Here is the Figure 8 Bracket. It fits forward of the cheek piece support block and really works like a charm for getting the "wiggle" out of a PFS. Got 'em in stock and will mail them right out for $55 + postage. Credit cards accepted by phone. 800-684-6329
I recently bought and installed a new PFS. I've got roughly 500 rounds through it in the past week and there is minute, but noticeable wiggle in the stock. I think I've narrowed it down to the bushings. Based on the pictures on VDT's (I think that's the screen name) website I can see how "wiggle" would develop over time. My question is: how quickly does this "wiggle" appear, and how does the bushing replacement correct it?
I had the same problem with mine and sent it back to Vern. He replaced parts and sent it back properly working. I did not have to add any other parts to what was there when I originally purchased it new.
I spoke with Vern before shooting an event this past weekend, and will speak with him again. I was just trying to get an idea of how much movement is normal for a new, never used PFS? And how much movement would be indicative of "wobble" or a worn bushing? Also, how much movement there is in a PFS with the longer bushing?
I've got 450 +/- round through this stock, all low-gun and I'm able to feel the movement of the stock as I mount the gun to fire.
Harry, I never could get the wiggle out of mine...not permanently anyway. Vern will send it back to you as it should be, but the wiggle will come back. The brace helps a little, but the movement will still be discernible....and annoying. I fixed mine by selling it.
There are compromises to everything. Mine has a little bit of wiggle, but I live with it. I tried the figure 8 bracket, but I could feel it on my face, so I took it off again.
Another option is to buy an Ergosign Evocomp, but @ about 3x the price of a PFS.
You may find keeping the PFS closely coupled will keep it stiffer than extending it to reach a long lop. You can keep the stock shortened while adding lop between the butt plate and recoil pad. This is accomplished by adding a thick recoil pad and or a spacer block.
Good point Surfer, I've done exactly the same thing. The problem w/ the way the PFS adjusts for LOP is that it moves the comb back with the butt. The comb should stay static, only the butt should move when you adjust LOP (as it would with a wood stock). I have a 1/2" delrin spacer in my stock b/w the stock and the pad adjuster. If I were to lengthen the stock to adjust to the LOP I'm at now, the comb block would be off the front of the top rod.
I'm assuming you have a later style stock with with either 3/8" or even later 1/4" guide rod which is attached above the washer stack tube, not earlier one with guide rod on the bottom and the washer stack on top. Regardless you should be able to loosen the the mounting clamps the comb attaches to and slide them fore and so the comb fits yuor cheek. On my later 1/4" guide rod stock, I have the Ultimate comb bracket with with a custom wood comb which gives more adjustment range due to its length.
Send me a picture, you may need an Ultimate with a custom cheek pice that would allow changing the adjustment pin spacing?
I have the current generation stock. I use a setup similar to the ultimate fit, with a bracket and soft top comb I made myself. Right now I only have about 1/2" b/w the comb block and the end of the top rod, but it doesn't really make any difference for me. I could move the block back, but would need to make a new bracket and comb to do so.
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