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Need advice on what to use for fluxing wheel weight lead. Is there any chance of removing tin from the mixture? What about Buck Beaver Flux.
Thanks
O. P. Holder
 

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I use the wax from comode seals. That is one of the reasons that you flux, to keep the tin in the mix. You can use heavy grease or bullet lube, I read one thing where the guy said to use dry saw dust. Not sure what the hell that was supposed to do. Have no idea what buck beaver flux is. Sounds like somethimg you would put on a stick behind a #4 long spring. Allen
 

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Some people use Marvelux, sold at Brownells. Saw dust will work along with bees wax, but the wax is too expensive anymore. Make sure the lead mix is up to temperature and stirred well before you start skimming because tin and lead melt at slightly different temps.
 

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Marvelux is a good flux, I think Brownell's carries it.

Yes you can get the melt temp high enough to volatilize Sn and Sb. A decent bullet casting manual will give you lots of advice on this. Pick up a Lyman manual for starters. A little reading will go a long way in helping you cast good bullets.
 

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Ditto on the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, it's the "bullet casting 101" textbook. You might also find the "castboolits" web forum interesting?
 

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It's a myth about remixing the tin into the melt using flux, as any good book on bullet casting will tell you. The tin does not seperate out at casting temperatures.

The reason you flux is to get all the suspended crud out of the melt. It will come to the surface and you can skim it off. I toss a lubed bullet into each fresh pot of lead. Just enough wax to do the job.

cap
 

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I have used all above except saw dust and all seem ok. Go to your local grocery and find the canned goods section and look for a rectangular box of pariffin usually with GULF (like the gasoline). Cheap and good stuff. Used it for years. DO GET a Lyman cast bullit book. Excellent! I started casting pistol bullits when I was about 15 (64 now) and have no idea how many bullits I have cast. Now all I cast is bullits for the big Sharps guns. 500 grain and larger and sort to +/- .3 grains---try that sometime!
 

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I just use some canning wax, or bullet lube. You can pick it up at the grocery store. I break a small piece off drop it in the the pot just before I start to mold. It will melt and cover the entire surface. Lite it with a match and as it burns stir the pot with your ladle It will work the tin back into the lead. Tin is lighter than the lead, so it wants to come to the surface. Wheel weights make a good alloy. Little hard, but works great.
 

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I just use some canning wax, or bullet lube. You can pick it up at the grocery store. I break a small piece off drop it in the the pot just before I start to mold. It will melt and cover the entire surface. Lite it with a match and as it burns stir the pot with your ladle It will work the tin back into the lead. Tin is lighter than the lead, so it wants to come to the surface. Wheel weights make a good alloy. Little hard, but works great.
 

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The reason you flux is to get all the suspended crud out of the melt. It will come to the surface and you can skim it off. I toss a lubed bullet into each fresh pot of lead. Just enough wax to do the job

I agree with this statement 100%. Unless your wheel weights have a huge amount of Tin in them they should be just fine for most applications.

It is true that specific harness levels are good for certain applications.

I though that since hard shot was good , high antimoney bullets would be great as well. WRONG!!! They didn't shoot for beans. I pretty much use wheel weights for all my 44 and 45 caliber bullets and the guns that shoot them all shoot to the guns potential.

You owe it to yourself to get the Lyman manual on casting bullets.

If you have never done it and do not ahave a friend who is well versed it the art, your education curve may be pretty steep. I.E Spend lots of time making bullets that do not shoot. Jeff
 

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I have used Marvelux for fluxing for years with no problems. Yes, for sure, get the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook. The 4th Edition is the latest, although I have, and use, the 3rd Edition as well.

Good Luck!

Allen
 
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