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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I acquired a barrel where the unsingles rib POI adjustment wheel (Beretta) was locked in place using what I assume is Loctite blue...Of course the rib is anodized aluminum and I'm concerned with destroying the finish on it....just wondering who can recommend how to dissolve this goop enough to get the adjuster to function as designed again...I have read heat and another suggestion was mixing auto trans fluid and acetone and soaking it..which would actually be pretty cumbersome...any and all 1st hand knowledgeable suggestions are direly needed and sincerely appreciated...CalMD
 

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Did a stuck choke tube in an Unsingle aluminum rib barrel a few years ago. Used a heat gun. Found what we believe was residue of Loctite Red, a much stronger adhesive than Loctite Blue. Only took three days to get the tube out but no damage to rib or barrel.
 

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If you are worried about over heating a large area - the judicious application of a soldering iron to the screw may be a better path...
 

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I've used a screwdriver in contact with the screw and then heated the bottom of the screwdriver with a micro torch to conduct the heat. May have to do it a couple times until it gets hot enough.
 

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The soldering iron HSLDS suggested has always worked for me. I have an old high heat soldering gun that works good on the stubborn ones.
 

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Calvin MD,

I wouldn't use any flammable chemicals. Apply a heat lamp or even lay a 100 watt light bulb next
to the wheel. There is a risk is buggering up the wheel attempting to loosen it.

A pair of proper sized Channel Locks with strips of leather Super Glued to the gripping teeth may give you
enough leverage to break the Locktite's bond.


Eddie
 

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All the above threads have good advice. I have used heat applied in several of the manners (soldering iron; heat gun; screw driver heated with torch) above with great success to loosen loctite and or epoxy. As the loctite approaches the magic temperature it softens and turns to soft putty. Same treatment works for epoxy glue or bedding compounds. I have also had success freezing parts stuck together with such compounds. As two different alloys freeze (or heat) they will contract (or expand with heat) at different rates causing a break in the bond.
But, in the case you describe, heat is your friend. Apply it slowly and carefully in one of the manners described in the above threads.
 

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Heat is the standard and works well with blue. But I've also had good luck on blue by using a bit of acetone on the thread area for a minute or so, often not requiring any heat. The green brake clean products are mostly acetone and ethanol, and work well. There is a green LocTite product that is used after pieces are assembled, and that stuff is brutal to loosen -- and here the acetone and heat combo works wonders. Red needs heat and torque...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys...its going to be awkward getting any torque on the adjustment wheel without screwing up the knurling so I guess I'm just going to heat the heck out of it and pray it loosens before the channel locks jaws slip and booger it up...the things you don't know about a part you buy can really bite you
 

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Thanks guys...its going to be awkward getting any torque on the adjustment wheel without screwing up the knurling so I guess I'm just going to heat the heck out of it and pray it loosens before the channel locks jaws slip and booger it up...the things you don't know about a part you buy can really bite you
Use leather on the jaws as suggested above.
 

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Some Cannon plug pliers had rubber inserts, and the jaws are curved. Maybe you can locate a set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks guys the heat helped but took enough of it that I started getting nervous about possible warpage...got'er done though
 
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