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Joe:

If you are wanting a deep hard finish, then just use the gloss material and when it is good and dry, hand rub it with a mixture of pumace stone and motor oil until is has a deep dull luster like you want. Now, if you want an oil finish that is different, just use linseed oil or any of the nice new stock oil finishes that you can buy from any sporting good store - about 20 coats of linseed oil gives you a pretty nice durable oil finish takes about a month. the beav
 

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beav's method will work with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. But you must apply the coating in thin layers, letting them thoroughly dry between coatings, plus polishing between coatings. The final coating will be rubbed per beav's method. Because you don't want a deep finish you can probably get away with two or three coatings, while those who want a mile deep coating will put on four to six. Patience is the key. I do about one coating a week, and the stock needs to dry in a warm area. I prefer to work in the summer so only the garage gets fumed up.

Linseed oil works, and is tried and true, but it's obsolete.
 

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Boiled Linseed. But Tru Oil and LinSpeed are IMO much better finishes and you can get gloss or flat easily.

For my first coat, following 600 grit sanding and whiskering, i mix 50/50 thinner with Tru Oil (have tried poly/spar varnish with mixed results) and Soak it into the stock, cross grain wipe with soft cloth after about 30 minutes (to help fill the pores) then use 600 grit over small patches to more effectively seal the wood. While doing this, if you spot a dry area where the mixture has dried out, dip the 600 grit in small amt of oil and sand that patch with wetted sandpaper. Let it dry a couple of days.

About every two days I re-sand using 600 grit wetted with Tru Oil. Cross wipe and set aside for two more days. Repeat until you have what you want.
 
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