[Rhodesengr]

The lip is formed in the final crimp. Seems to me that the pre-crimp is not all that critical. A hole about the size of primer to even somewhat bigger is OK. You may have a stack height problem or you need to lower the final crimp. Check the manual for how to adjust.

Before you crimp, what is the distance from the top of the hull to the top of your stack? Post a photo of the stack?

 

[bigslim]

I'm not 100% sure but that looks like a stack height issue to me. Are you using posted reloading data?

Mike

 

[Edcnh]

I have been having trouble getting a good final crimp. There is no lip on the shell after I make my final crimp. I can fit a 3/16” drill bit in the hole made after my pre-crimp. Wondering if this may be part of the problem.

The lip is formed in the final crimp. Seems to me that the pre-crimp is not all that critical. A hole about the size of primer to even somewhat bigger is OK. You may have a stack height problem or you need to lower the final crimp. Check the manual for how to adjust.

Before you crimp, what is the distance from the top of the hull to the top of your stack? Post a photo of the stack?

The distance from the top of the hull to the stack is 0.6” using dial calipers for the measurement. I am using 1-1/8 oz of shot.

 

[Rhodesengr]

Weird. That's actually too low I think. When I saw your load using waa wads, my thought is they are often too short especially in a straight hull and your stack does seem too low.420 is a decent amount of hull above the stack. Try lowering the center punch screw in the main crimp.

 

[Rhodesengr]

Have you seen 50mil deep lips with other builds? Or is this the first build on this machine?

 

[Rhodesengr]

From your manual page 10. Looks like #1

 

[Edcnh]

Have you seen 50mil deep lips with other builds? Or is this the first build on this machine?

I tried loading Top Guns at first. Crimps we’re all dished in with pellets exposed. I got some once fired Gold Medal hulls and started trying to load them. Much better but crimp is still off. I have tried lowering the punch in the main crimp. I will keep lowering a little at a time and see hoe that works. Thanks for your help!

 

[Rhodesengr]

Top guns tend to have a very low base wad so your stack was probably very low. That might have caused the dishing. You might look into using CB6118 wads. They are intended for straight wall hulls like Fed GM. The WAA wads are intended for tapered hulls like Win and Rem. The 6118 wads have a compliant mid section so they adjust down when you crimp.

I found early on that just because a load is listed is no guarantee that it will build well. WAA wads in Rem hulls were too low while CB 8118 worked great in Rem hulls. You have straight hulls and you will probably get better results with cb6118 or the Fed 12S3 clone. Your red dot powder is about as bulky as they get so that should tend to stack high rather than low.

 

[dirt stirrer]

3/8” top of hull to top of shot in cup will give you purdy crimps all day long. Change wads to get to that stack height

 

[X-farmer]

Use a 12so wad.

 

[Pm686]

I'm not 100% sure but that looks like a stack height issue to me. Are you using posted reloading data?

Mike

I agree.

To test it throw more lead in by hand and see if it fixes the crimp.

 

[Edcnh]

Top guns tend to have a very low base wad so your stack was probably very low. That might have caused the dishing. You might look into using CB6118 wads. They are intended for straight wall hulls like Fed GM. The WAA wads are intended for tapered hulls like Win and Rem. The 6118 wads have a compliant mid section so they adjust down when you crimp.

I found early on that just because a load is listed is no guarantee that it will build well. WAA wads in Rem hulls were too low while CB 8118 worked great in Rem hulls. You have straight hulls and you will probably get better results with cb6118 or the Fed 12S3 clone. Your red dot powder is about as bulky as they get so that should tend to stack high rather than low.

I had some CB6118 wads that I bought to reload the Top Guns. Tried them and after a few minor adjustments the crimps look much better. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Rhodesengr]

rim still looks a little shallow and there is some swirling. Try a little lower on the center screw (for deeper rim) and raise the cam a little (for less swirl)

 

[Chuckie]

The problem is the new style Federal Hull has a different base wad and volumetrically is larger than the previous Top Gun Straight Wall Hulls.
Stack height is the problem.

 

[Edcnh]

rim still looks a little shallow and there is some swirling. Try a little lower on the center screw (for deeper rim) and raise the cam a little (for less swirl)

rim still looks a little shallow and there is some swirling. Try a little lower on the center screw (for deeper rim) and raise the cam a little (for less swirl)

OK Will give it a try.

 

[CROY1990]

Try setting your precrimp a little deeper and the hole should
go away. I load this recipe without any issues.

 

[Edcnh]

Try setting your precrimp a little deeper and the hole should
go away. I load this recipe without any issues.

OK Thanks

 

[Bob_K]

I am surprised folks did not jump on the wad sooner in the discussion. Although the Alliant load is safe, it generally not the best approach to use a wad meant for a tapered hull in a straight wall hull.

 

[abrown2009]

I have been having trouble getting a good final crimp. There is no lip on the shell after I make my final crimp. I can fit a 3/16” drill bit in the hole made after my pre-crimp. Wondering if this may be part of the problem. The load is Federal Gold Medal Hulls, 17.5 grains of Red Dot and Claybuster WAA 12 clones for wads. The load is from The Alliant website reloading data.

I increased the pressure on my machine when I press in the wad .Everyone tells me you don't need any pressure on the wad .That you needed pressure on the old paper wads .But I think it gives more room after loading the shot and I think it improves the pressure and seal between the powder and the wad and it gives me better crimps .