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MEC reloading issues

3951 Views 21 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  brandon lamp
I鈥檓 loading on a MEC 9000. Components are:

12 ga hulls
American Select 17.2 gr
Either Winchester lite or Claybuster wads
7/8 oz #8 chilled shot
Primers - when I can find them. 馃檮

The only difference is the hulls. Remington STS, Winchester compression formed, and Winchester (newer) hulls. The STS hulls and the compression formed Winchesters load great. The other two not so much. The crimps on the latter two sometimes will close, sometimes will not. Sometimes the side of the hull will buckle, sometimes they are just fine. I鈥檓 guessing the internal structure of the newer hulls must be the problem - perhaps tapered where the Remington and CF Winchester鈥檚 are straight walled (?)

Looking for suggestions for a remedy. I have quite a few of the newer Winchester hulls and would like to be able to reload them.
Reloader adjustment ? Different wad for different hulls ? Down range, etc. ? When I talk with my friends they say they are using Claybuster wads in all their hulls and claim no similar problems.
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The Remington and CF Winchester鈥 are not straight wall hulls , they are tapered. I suggest what mg1polo says and use the 12SL wad. Also take a look at your first stage crimp starter If the crimp starter is too shallow it will not fold all the way over on the final crimp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The Remington and CF Winchester鈥 are not straight wall hulls , they are tapered. I suggest what mg1polo says and use the 12SL wad. Also take a look at your first stage crimp starter If the crimp starter is too shallow it will not fold all the way over on the final crimp.
I cannot figure out why some (newer hulls) seem to load fine and the crimp closes without issue and many others have a comprised sidewall and open crimp. Can鈥檛 figure out why some are fine and many are not.
 

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The newer AA HS hulls have less internal capacity(due to base wad) then the Remington or AA CF. So most of your issue is stack height. As MG said you should change wad for that hull and adjust the crimp station. Also AA HS seem to have more variances in length from one hull to the next but you should be able to adjust the loader to get a happy medium so you get a few with a slight swirl and some with a small hole.
 

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Been there; done that. AA HS hulls need either a hull (edit: WAD!) that is designed for them ( a bit shorter) or a denser powder ( like tightwad). It is a stack height issue. Yes, curses and damnation for the published loading data that still, decades later, refuse to acknowledge that the AA HS hulls require their own specific load data.



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I cannot figure out why some (newer hulls) seem to load fine and the crimp closes without issue and many others have a comprised sidewall and open crimp. Can鈥檛 figure out why some are fine and many are not.
If you switch wads to a 12SL instead of the 12L that you are using, your problem will be gone, period!
 

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Switch to a WW12SL wad and your problem will be gone with the New AA hull.
Problem solved.......
Ditto what polo says, Been loading AA,s from CF thru 4 Gens of HS hulls, what he said is exactly true. Best part is the hulls are free all over the place. Beats me why people are scrambling for Gun Clubs, adjust your pre-crimp and all the brass hulled hulls are yours for the taking!
 

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Any 1 oz. AA-style wad will solve your problem with the AA new-style hull and a bulky powder like your American Select. The Green Duster ought to be a good choice. Like most have said, your stack height is too tall and using a wad with a bit shorter crush section will bring the stack height down and cure the problem.

That business about a "cocked wad" is hogwash. The sidewalls on the new style AA are weaker than the old style AA and that what causes them to buckle when the stack height is too tall.
 

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Not Always 馃槑
I am assuming you are referring to the issue that very few people had with some of the original CB wads catching on that cup's lip on the way down with wads that seated down into that insert. They do offer wads all labeled with a "lead in taper" on the wad. It's a solution to a problem that really doesn't exist.
 

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From Claybuster's site.
Lead-In Taper
View attachment 1745440

Some Claybuster Wads now feature a lead-in taper on the powder cup that reduces the possibility of catching on the insert in the HS Hull.
I鈥檝e had wads catch on that insert. When I said as much on here some lumber duck told me I was lying. But....

So I just disregarded anything further from them.
 

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From Claybuster's site.
Lead-In Taper
View attachment 1745440

Some Claybuster Wads now feature a lead-in taper on the powder cup that reduces the possibility of catching on the insert in the HS Hull.
Dirt they are truly a great fix for an HS hull and easy to work with I have used them exclusively when they first became available.
Thanks for you reply 馃憤
 
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