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Removed collet to lubricant. Replaced collet flush with base lower than shell carrier. Now, shell will not de-prime. Handle comes to a hard stop. I tried to adjust Collet Closer Nut (part 97), but not sure if I did correctly. Any ideas? Thanks, Ron
 

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Removed collet to lubricant. Replaced collet flush with base lower than shell carrier. Now, shell will not de-prime. Handle comes to a hard stop. I tried to adjust Collet Closer Nut (part 97), but not sure if I did correctly. Any ideas? Thanks, Ron
Make sure the adjustment nut is "flat" against the reloader frame.
 

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It sounds like your shell is not dropping all the way to the bottom. That would mean it is catching or the collet is closing before the shell gets to the bottom.
 

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Make sure the shell lifter is properly located in the fork and adjusted for height.
 

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This shows the folly of removing the collet that is adjusted properly for cleaning when it can be cleaned and lubricated while it's in the press. Other problems are frequently induced in the process.
 
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+1 for not removing the collet to lube. The collet can be lubed in place with a small artists brush and Anti-Seize.
 
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I have not used antiseize since about 1995. I used WD40 for a while and now use Hornady spray dry gun cleaner and lube. If the collet is really dirty I will spray it out pretty good, and every hundred rounds or so, I give it a little squirt. Never broke or wore out anything and the dry lube does not cake up with debris.
 

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I have not used antiseize since about 1995. I used WD40 for a while and now use Hornady spray dry gun cleaner and lube. If the collet is really dirty I will spray it out pretty good, and every hundred rounds or so, I give it a little squirt. Never broke or wore out anything and the dry lube does not cake up with debris.
Lube the collet every 100 rounds? Anti-Seize (the recommended lube) will last for at least 5000 rounds, maybe more. The only part of the collet that needs lube is the top 1/4" of the outside of the fingers. This can be done with a small artist's brush without any disassembly.
 
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I have not used antiseize since about 1995. I used WD40 for a while and now use Hornady spray dry gun cleaner and lube. If the collet is really dirty I will spray it out pretty good, and every hundred rounds or so, I give it a little squirt. Never broke or wore out anything and the dry lube does not cake up with debris.
Your lube is a complete waste of time.
By your own summary, it needs to be reapplied every 100 strokes.
Antisieze is what Mec has designated for over 40 years. Maybe you know something they don't.
MG
 

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MEC recommends lubes. I use powdered graphite.
 

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You are right

collet - anti seize

slide bar - graphite

linkage light oil

page 31

https://www.mecoutdoors.com/Content/documents/9000.pdf

I am on the wrong thread and forgetting my memory is going. But I use dry lube on linkage and slide and quite often, anti seize on collet. I hate the mess it makes.
 
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Your lube is a complete waste of time.
By your own summary, it needs to be reapplied every 100 strokes.
Antisieze is what Mec has designated for over 40 years. Maybe you know something they don't.
MG
You are absolutely right, that is the MEC recommendation. I used anti seize lube until I got tired of dealing with the gritty mess. It did a fine job, just a messy clean up.

Neither of us are having any trouble with the collet for many years. That is a good thing. I just like to flush the dirt every spray and never get take anything apart. If I saw any issue wear or breakage, I would change my ways.
 
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