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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought a used 8567 grabber. It's a 2009 model I think. I've made some nice looking reloads using 1oz 8 shot and gun club hulls. Hodgdon data.

I've seen YouTube videos of folks placing a hull in station 1 and pulling the handle without powder dropping on an empty station 2 or shot dropping on station 3.

In my very limited experience powder and shot drop regardless if there is a hull in either station. None of the videos I watched had their press set up forvsingkevstage type reloading. They just went for it bottles up.

My solution is to put hulls with spent primers in station 2 and 3, dump the powder/shot until proper components for reloading make it to those stages.

Is there a way to make this press start with 1 hull or is this normal operating procedure?

Go easy on me as I'm limited by what I dont know. I'm new to shotshell reloading. Metalic I have experience in. The manual makes it seem as I should start with a hull on position 1 without worrying about making a mess with powder and shot going everywhere. Not the case in my situation as of now. Thanks.
 

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I recently bought a used 8567 grabber. It's a 2009 model I think. I've made some nice looking reloads using 1oz 8 shot and gun club hulls. Hodgdon data.

I've seen YouTube videos of folks placing a hull in station 1 and pulling the handle without powder dropping on an empty station 2 or shot dropping on station 3.

In my very limited experience powder and shot drop regardless if there is a hull in either station. None of the videos I watched had their press set up forvsingkevstage type reloading. They just went for it bottles up.

My solution is to put hulls with spent primers in station 2 and 3, dump the powder/shot until proper components for reloading make it to those stages.

Is there a way to make this press start with 1 hull or is this normal operating procedure?

Go easy on me as I'm limited by what I dont know. I'm new to shotshell reloading. Metalic I have experience in. The manual makes it seem as I should start with a hull on position 1 without worrying about making a mess with powder and shot going everywhere. Not the case in my situation as of now. Thanks.
There is a latch to the right side of the shot and powder bar that when adjusted properly, unlocks the bar when it is under the reprime/powder station and locks after the last shell is under the shot drop station, If you do not have a manual, on line to MEC, download the manual for your press and you will find the explanation for this system.

https://www.mecoutdoors.com/Content/documents/8567.pdf

see photos 11, 21, pages 13 and 14.
 

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On the Mec schematic make sure you have #9,10 and 11. The bar lock #9 is what holds the charge bar. Photo #47 shows the locking mechanism. Thanks to Rick for the manual.
Steve
 

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It can be done like they say above but it does not always work. I do it the same way you do where I put in an empty shell under the powder and shot drops.
 

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Before you attach and fill the powder and shot bottles, manually press the charge bar to the left and ensure that the latch hook holds it there. After that, proceed with your set-up and begin reloading with one empty hull in station one (resize/deprime). Pull the handle all the way down and follow it at a moderate speed all the way up. Don't release the handle and allow the spring alone to take the handle up. A primer will drop at station two. The first empty will move to station two. Place another empty in station one and pull the handle again smoothly all the way down. A primer will seat in the hull at station two, and the charge bar will drop powder in the primed hull. Place a wad in the guide fingers. Place another empty in station one. At the next down and up stroke of the handle, the wad will be seated and shot will drop at station three. You're now up and running.... Always visually check for primer drop, and remember to feed another empty and wad before pulling the handle. I'm sure someone will correct me if I've said something wrong, and/or add additional helpful tips. -Ed
 

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Mine works. I can run one hull through all the stations one at a time and get a finished shell. But...if you disturb the sequence you are going to get shot. Once it drops powder it drops shot on the next stroke, no exception. I have made a lot of those mistakes.
 

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Being as the OP bought a used machine, it could be (just a thought on my part), that the spring on the trip lever might have to be replaced. Perhaps some other parts are worn and might need to be replaced as well.

This just an observation on my part, no statements I make are suggestions, recommendations or instructions that anyone do anything.
 

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On each of my reloaders I have a pair of empty hulls that I have trimmed off about a half inch below the crimp line. I have had accidents and a mess when the latch does not catch or fails to hold. I place the the shortened hulls under the shot and powder drops to catch the drop and they progress around the turret without interfering with the crimp or taper stations. They are also handy to catch a sample of shot or powder to check your weights. It's stuff like this you figure out after 50 years of reloading and cleaning up a mess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you for your advice. I'll read the manual for what seems like the 100th time and compare pics to what I have again. I didn't find mecs videos all that helpful as the ones I saw didn't have close up views. Any video recommendations I may have missed? Thanks again.
 

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MEC has videos on their web site.

pages 13 and 14 of the manual are adjustment guidelines for the operation of the auto cycle.

Just observations on my part, no recommendations or instructions by me for anyone to do anything.
 

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^^^^^^^^^there you go. Thanks dgh.
 
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Yea, thanks for the video DGH, my 28ga Grabber could use a little fine tuning according to that clip...
Sometimes a video is better than written instructions !
 

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I just went through a complete readjustment of my machine as I just started reloading again. Some of the adjustments can be very fine. As an example one bead either way on the primer chain can make the difference between dropping primers nicely or them getting hung up. The same fine adjustments (half a turn with the screwdriver) in the pre-crimp and crimping station can get rid of those pesky swirls. I have also found with my machine that when powder gets low the powder charge will get light. Measure more often when it gets to about a third full and refill when needed.

Good luck
 

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I just went through a complete readjustment of my machine as I just started reloading again. Some of the adjustments can be very fine. As an example one bead either way on the primer chain can make the difference between dropping primers nicely or them getting hung up. The same fine adjustments (half a turn with the screwdriver) in the pre-crimp and crimping station can get rid of those pesky swirls. I have also found with my machine that when powder gets low the powder charge will get light. Measure more often when it gets to about a third full and refill when needed.

Good luck
Maybe that is why Mec puts the lines on the bottle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just went through a complete readjustment of my machine as I just started reloading again. Some of the adjustments can be very fine. As an example one bead either way on the primer chain can make the difference between dropping primers nicely or them getting hung up. The same fine adjustments (half a turn with the screwdriver) in the pre-crimp and crimping station can get rid of those pesky swirls. I have also found with my machine that when powder gets low the powder charge will get light. Measure more often when it gets to about a third full and refill when needed.

Good luck
I learned about keeping the powder bottle at least half full on my machine. Big difference in consistent drops for me. I assume it works the same as an auto disk in metallic reloading and being consistent in handle pulls helps as well. At least in my experience thus far. Which is limited.
 

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The video that DGH posted fixed my bar lock problem too, even after all of Curly’s help. Bending the little tab down to ensure the bar lock rod was flush made all the difference.

I’ve read the manual 10 times, and spilled way too much shot, but never got it until I saw that!

Big thanks for posting that
 
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