MEC 600JR (Pre-1985) 6-Pt vs. 8-PT Spindex Dies | Trap Shooters Forum

MEC 600JR (Pre-1985) 6-Pt vs. 8-PT Spindex Dies

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by DusterMan2, Nov 4, 2018.

  1. DusterMan2

    DusterMan2 TS Member

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    Picked up a MEC 600JR sometime ago and have reloaded Winchester, Remington, Federal hulls. All of which are 8-PT crimps. A while back I stopped at Cabella's on my way home from work and they had Fiocchi 12-Gauge shells on sale. Since the price was right I bought a couple of flats thinking that they were a one and done. However, the hull collector that I am kept telling me to try and reload the translucent little gems. Since I also have a MEC Grabber, I loaded it up with shot and powder. Snapped the 6-PT pre-crimp bushing into place. Bought some Fiocchi primers. And before you knew i had a couple of flats of reloaded Fiocchi shells. Which shot very well and looked like they could go a couple of more times through the press.

    The I looked at the MEC 600JR. I did not have a 6-PT die. So I looked on eBay and found a metal
    Spindex assembly with both a 6-PT and 8-PT set of dies. Her lies the problem. The height of the 6-PT die is close to .100" higher that the 8-PT die. (See below.) The height difference will not even let me install the 6-PT die into the Spindex assembly without binding too the point that it will not spin.

    So I am asking what should I do. Should I grind off the 6-PT die so that it fits? I think I can remove enough material to allow the 6-PT die to spin without the washer. Or did I get the wrong die altogether.

    Thanks in advance for your opinion.

    The Dies 1.JPG The Dies 2.JPG

     
  2. Rhett.Army

    Rhett.Army Banned User Banned

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    I use the metal 8-point starters on all my 12 gauge hulls. The crimps are more than adequate on the 6-point hulls.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2018
  3. flashmax

    flashmax Well-Known Member

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    You got the wrong die. But, no more than it cost you can try whittling it down. If it works, fine. If not buy the new style crimp starter that comes complete with all you need for both six and eight.
     
  4. derbyacresbob

    derbyacresbob Well-Known Member

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    Are you leaving the spacer out when you install the 6 point crimp?
     
  5. DusterMan2

    DusterMan2 TS Member

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    When I tried to install the die without the spacer the screw on cap will not seat. Looks like it is two or three threads short of seating.
     
  6. derbyacresbob

    derbyacresbob Well-Known Member

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    You can use it like it is by taking a felt pen and marking on the outside where you can see it, a line going up and down inline with one of the ridges of the 6 point crimp. When you put a shell in the start crimp station you line up one of the valleys on the 6 point hull with the mark on the outside of the crimper. It is easy and more reliable than counting on the crimper to rotate into position on the 6 point hull.
     
    Last edited: Nov 5, 2018
  7. Skeetbender

    Skeetbender Active Member

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    I a MEC I bought brand new in 1981 have all original parts, my 6 point never did spin with the screw on cap tight, I always ran it with the screw on cap loose enough for the insert to spin with no issue and have loaded thousands of six point shells on it.

    Never bothered to modify it, it is on my bench now loading six point shells.
    Got some spare time might massage it some for grins.
     
  8. SteveS1965

    SteveS1965 Well-Known Member

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    buy the new style spindex crimp starter kit comes with 6 and 8 point crimp starters and once adjusted right works great
     
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  9. Leo

    Leo Well-Known Member

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    The new plastic free floating units actually work better than the old metal ones. Don't be temped to keep snapping the plastic piece on and off the metal ball stud. The plastic will wear and fall off. Make sure you have two metal ball studs and change the assembly with the nut and stud, and they will last many years.
     
  10. broadway john

    broadway john Well-Known Member

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    I looked at both of my MEC loaders, 1975-600jr and 1976-Grabber76-1R. the brass crimp starters are the same as what you have. The 6 point were meant to be used without the washer. Other thing to consider is that back in those days about the only shells that were reloaded with 6 point crimps were papers which would not spring back. If you want you can install the 6 point starter without the washer and add a shim the thickness of the washer above the starter assembly, a couple flat washers will most likely get you where you want to be. If the starter is too long to spin when installed simply file it down until it is short enough to spin.
     
  11. Skeetbender

    Skeetbender Active Member

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    Went out to the bench took the 6 point out hit it on the belt sander down to .515in. overall height, removed material from the bottom round side.

    Now spins free in the collar when tight, loaded 100 shells worked flawless.
     
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  12. Bill Hom

    Bill Hom TS Supporters TS Supporters

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    What I found, is the best way. Order a new crimp starter assy. from Mec and replace the original. I also ordered the 8 point and the smooth cone. I use the smooth cone on the 6pt. crimps and works very well. It will take a lot of changing back and forth to wear out the pop on hole in the plastic crimp head to where it will fall off. Bill
     
  13. shotgun52

    shotgun52 Well-Known Member

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    you could have bought the smooth paper crimp cone starter and used it for all of your shells. They work good on 6pt 8pt and paper hulls.
     
  14. I'dhitthat

    I'dhitthat Well-Known Member

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    the 6 point was never meant to spin in the pre 1985 600 jr. If you refer to the owners manual it states that the 6 point will be stationary and you need to place a reference mark on the body of the die and line up the shell accordingly in order to get a quality crimp. I've done it and it's kind of a PITA but it's what the manual told me to do. since then like most of the rest of you I have moved up to a newer set up.
     
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