[BT-100dc]

In the age of gadgets, there are many expensive (and effective ?) ways to tame recoil in a shotgun. I've looked at the way my AR-15 functions. Excluding the gas system, I've ascertained that the recoil from the last shot (as the bolt stays open) is different from the recoil during the other shots. I've made a recoil reducer out of a round aluminum 3/4" o.d. pipe, a steel round piston (1 3/4" long), 2 springs (long weaker spring on the butt end and a short stiff spring to cushion the stop of the steel piston when it cycles back to the original position)available at my local hardware store. Also, pin the springs on both ends in order to keep springs in tact. The total cost of material amounted to about $5.00; this was fitted to the bolt hole in a BT-100 (one end rests against around the bolt head in the stock while the other end rests up against the recoil pad. In you choose not to insulate it, it sounds like my AR-15 when it cycles. Works for me and the price was right. Darrell

 

[crusha]

5 bucks to add 8 ounces of weight...not bad.

 

[shot410ga]

Well, everyone else makes one. You might as well too. Maybe you can sell it for $10.00 and make a 100% profit....

 

[skeeljc]

I am not sure that your weight will move fast enough to do much other than just add weight.

Didn't someone make a shotgun that had a sliding weight that was moved by gas pressure? Seems like I remember seeing that somewhere.

Jim Skeel

 

[Big Jack]

Darrell, You have just reproduced the old Edward's Recoil Reducer. He just taped eccentrics on the ends to redirect the line of force on recoil. If it works for you, go for it!

Big Jack

 

[halfmile]

We had a guy in our club years ago doing the same thing, almost.

His was piece of conduit with a lead slug and a spring inside. He put a washer on each end and peened the conduit over to hold them.

It worked good, and he gave a lot of them away. The Edwards was like that too but I don't know what was inside.

I had one in an 1100 and it did work also.

HM

 

[Hap MecTweaks]

I melt lead into copper tubing of various sizes to fit stock bolt holes. Some even a larger size for more weight on certain guns. Hacksaw to needed length, butt contour, paint it if you want. Much cheaper than anything on the market and works better too! No gizmo springs, no liquids splashing forward in order to work etc. etc. Adding weight is what works, complicated theory gizmos cost a ton of money in comparison and don't work one whit better! Any time weight is added no matter what kind, helps. Hap

 

[wireguy]

No springs? No liquid? Hap, sure it may work, but is it fun? I mean come on man, anyone can make a recoil reducer that works, but can you create a reducer that entertains you at the same time? That inspires improvements and new theories and clever names, and most importantly, contains that magical element that opens your fellow shooter's wallets?

 

[MXSHOOTER]

Hap,I do the exact same thing, best reducer I've found yet, by melting the lead you get almost twice the weight of shot and it's easy to remove for stock removal.

 

[Hap MecTweaks]

Doug, I've built a lot of those theory thingies also in the past. Sure they work, but just by adding extra weight. The convincing part is, you can hear/feel the clanging, vibrations and other sensations which works on the mind. If you can hear it work, it must be good? I like the silent stuff myself,silent but deadly on reducing felt recoil. Besides, it works quicker on recoil and leaves me a tad more cash to buy reloading stuff and entry fees too. Maybe I should sell these fantastic add-ons at $125.99 and guarantee recoil reduction or your money back? Good goodies must cost more? I defy any maker to prove his "thingies" works better on reducing felt recoil than my lead filled tubing does!!

<a href="http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r104/HapMecTweaks/?action=view¤t=recoilreduction.jpg" target="_blank">

</a>

MXSHOOTER, I'm sure you've found the same things in your experimenting also. We're just trying to save our fellow shooters a few bucks that's better spent on targets!

Edited; the tube above weighs about 4.2 ounces per inch.

Hap

 

[whiz white]

As I've mentioned umpteen times regarding recoil reducers:

Simply pour into the stock bolt cavity, lead shot! I'd recommend at least am amount equl to or a tad bit more than what would fill 1 or 2 empty 12 gauge hulls. I then make a Delrin plug on the recoil pad end to cover it (drill and tap [not all the way thorugh] a small hole to make removal of the plug easier.

Recoil is about F=ma (Force = mass x acceleration). Reduce one, increase the other, increase one, reduce the other, etc, etc, etc.

Ever take a sock full of lead shot and drop it? Look at it bounce - it doesn't. I simply absorbs the Force caused from acceleration due to gravity: V=½at².

Personally, I think recoil reducers are a gimick. I wish not to argue this, but I do have math and physics undergrad degrees, so I kinda think I have a handle on the matter... so???

IMHO.

WW