I have known several shooters who, in the past, made the over powder wads with punches. A sharp edge is easily made on the end of a proper diameter pipe. Punching out the filler wads is the difficult part. Rather than trying to punch these, the proper thickness of a folded paper towel will work as well.
I will not ask why anyone would want to go back to paper/filler wads.
I make my own. You need an empty 16 gauge hull with a steel base. First deprime it. Then using pliers, hold it over a heat source (I use the kitchen stove) until you can pull the plastic hull from the steel head (be careful, the plastic will cause a nasty burn if you get it on you). Use a #10 machine screw about 1" long and star lock washers, insert the machine screw through the primer hole, and place a nut on the outside. You may need to play with it a little to get it centered as best you can (actually, if you use a 1/4 machine screw you will need to open the primer hole ever so slightly, but it is easier to get it centered). I chuck this in a drill using the exposed threads of the machine screw, and then while the drill is running, hold a file to the outside edge to sharpen it. I use an old scrap piece of 2x4 or other wood as a cutting backer, and from my old primer cartons I cut thousands of overshot cards. As it gets dull, just use the file to resharpen. Some of the wads get stck in the cutter, buy you can use a little screwdriver to pop them out.
I want to make my own overshot card for many resonas .
One is I want to use a fast burning powder, but that gives you a lower charge weight.
The lower charge weight means less volume and a need for an overshot Cards.
The reason for not buying already made overshot card from places like Ballistic Products.
The cost of the cards and shipping, it would be easier to buy a powder that would take up more space and would be slower burning.
I use a 5/8" dia gasket punch ( pipefitters use the punch in making gaskets for pipe flanges ) usually cost a few dollars . Use a good magazine 'cause the paper is stronger and a piece of 2-by and don't pay for "papers".
To use in progressive presses , put a small pile of the papers near the wad container , pick up a wad with the thumb and "tall-man" , moisten the pointer , touch a paper (it'll stick), pass the paper over the case (with shot in place), catch the inside edge of the mouth and the paper will usually fall right into place .
The powder that I am interested in using is Titegroup.
From what I have read on Threads here and from bushing charts you’ll have to take up some space.
I am see more replies about filler wads than overshot cards – why?
Doesn't the wad over the primer under the powder make problem with ignition? I bought a bunch at a farm auction along with a lot of other stuff. The farmer reloaders hang onto everthing it seems. Compliment, not criticism!
I,ve been reloading Titegroup for a couple of years now and haven't found a need for a card. I've loaded 1oz and 1 1/8oz loads and haven't had a single crimp problem. For that matter, cold weather performance hasn't been an issue either. You just to have to retrain yourself on your loading practices. 1oz wads are the norm for 1 1/8oz loads.
If you are reloading Remington hulls, use a TGT-12 wad instead of a figure 8 wad. Hodgdon says that they will interchange without any pressure problems. The TGT-12 is a little taller and will make up for the lack of powder bulk. I have also used the Green XL-1 Downrange wads without any problems. The data for the XL-1's was provided by Downrange.