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Does anyone know a gunsmith/ machinist that can make me a slightly longer firing pin for my Browning 725. The bottom barrel will not reach far enough to hit some primers properly. I am not a machinist but from my thinking it could be done to a standard pin with just a few modifications. If you are, or know someone who can do this modification please let me know. I can give you my ideas over the phone. Thanks in advance, Bob
 

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Does anyone know a gunsmith/ machinist that can make me a slightly longer firing pin for my Browning 725. The bottom barrel will not reach far enough to hit some primers properly. I am not a machinist but from my thinking it could be done to a standard pin with just a few modifications. If you are, or know someone who can do this modification please let me know. I can give you my ideas over the phone. Thanks in advance, Bob
Have you removed the pin, all fragments of the rebound spring, and thoroughly cleaned the pin bore? If so then go to a vendor on here, J&P Springs, and buy their pin. But before you replace the pin clean the pin bore.
 

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Lengthen the retaining pin slot in the current firing pin. Make sure the spring is not stacking too much, restricting travel of the firing pin. Also check the shoulder of the firing pin. It is probably not bottoming out on the breech, but you can check it. No down side to turning the shoulder back. Polish, do not remove metal on the tip of the firing pin. Now you have a custom firing pin for YOUR gun.
 

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Does anyone know a gunsmith/ machinist that can make me a slightly longer firing pin for my Browning 725. The bottom barrel will not reach far enough to hit some primers properly. I am not a machinist but from my thinking it could be done to a standard pin with just a few modifications. If you are, or know someone who can do this modification please let me know. I can give you my ideas over the phone. Thanks in advance, Bob
Jack First !
 

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Does anyone know a gunsmith/ machinist that can make me a slightly longer firing pin for my Browning 725. The bottom barrel will not reach far enough to hit some primers properly. I am not a machinist but from my thinking it could be done to a standard pin with just a few modifications. If you are, or know someone who can do this modification please let me know. I can give you my ideas over the phone. Thanks in advance, Bob
no sorry
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Have you removed the pin, all fragments of the rebound spring, and thoroughly cleaned the pin bore? If so then go to a vendor on here, J&P Springs, and buy their pin. But before you replace the pin clean the pin bore.
Thanks for the reply. I already cleaned inspected and installed the J&P pin and spring, same situation
 

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Thanks for the reply. I already cleaned inspected and installed the J&P pin and spring, same situation
Then it is something else assuming the gun USED to fire. You need a competent smith, in person, to check the possibilities.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Lengthen the retaining pin slot in the current firing pin. Make sure the spring is not stacking too much, restricting travel of the firing pin. Also check the shoulder of the firing pin. It is probably not bottoming out on the breech, but you can check it. No down side to turning the shoulder back. Polish, do not remove metal on the tip of the firing pin. Now you have a custom firing pin for YOUR gun.
Have checked the depth of the pin when installing the new J&P pin. Need to have the shoulder turned down a bit and also the slot for the cross pin that holds the pin in would have to be widened to allow for the increased depth.
 

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Flash is right, pull the pin and spring and thoroughly inspect the pin bore (with emphasis on the pinhole face at the end of the bore) I bet there will be a layer of carbon buildup that does not let the pin protrude far enough that is causing light strikes... to be 100% transparent I sold my 725 because I got tired of replacing pins every other month. Not an expert but I think the pin angle has something to do with contacting the primer in a way that pushes the primer skin to the point that it pierces and blows back. I think the longer pin idea is going to speed up the process to failure... I would use the stock browning pins and switch to a higher quality primer like a Winchester if you reload.. if not try and find Winchester AAs or STS/Nitros...
good luck
 

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Whitehawk27, I have worked on many shotguns with "firing pin problems". I can tell you that having a longer firing pin made for your shotgun is most likely just a band aid to cover up another problem. If your shotgun worked ok at one time then you have another problem. Fixes I have made include cleaning out the firing pin hole, replacing the old firing pin with a new one, replacing bad primers that have the cup manufactured too deep. But one of these has always fixed the problem. If you have a Browning 725 that has the firing pin hole or cross pin incorrectly machined it would be a VERY rare thing. My two cents worth. (yes, I have made a lot of firing pins. The last batch was for Winchester 101's, see pic) Regards, Bob
Wood Font Office supplies Handwriting Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Flash is right, pull the pin and spring and thoroughly inspect the pin bore (with emphasis on the pinhole face at the end of the bore) I bet there will be a layer of carbon buildup that does not let the pin protrude far enough that is causing light strikes... to be 100% transparent I sold my 725 because I got tired of replacing pins every other month. Not an expert but I think the pin angle has something to do with contacting the primer in a way that pushes the primer skin to the point that it pierces and blows back. I think the longer pin idea is going to speed up the process to failure... I would use the stock browning pins and switch to a higher quality primer like a Winchester if you reload.. if not try and find Winchester AAs or STS/Nitros...
good luck
You are correct about the pin angle. That is why I believe a modified pin would cure the problem. The shells in question are the Estate brand .At least one in the box will not fire in the bottom barrel but will fire in the top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Whitehawk27, I have worked on many shotguns with "firing pin problems". I can tell you that having a longer firing pin made for your shotgun is most likely just a band aid to cover up another problem. If your shotgun worked ok at one time then you have another problem. Fixes I have made include cleaning out the firing pin hole, replacing the old firing pin with a new one, replacing bad primers that have the cup manufactured too deep. But one of these has always fixed the problem. If you have a Browning 725 that has the firing pin hole or cross pin incorrectly machined it would be a VERY rare thing. My two cents worth. (yes, I have made a lot of firing pins. The last batch was for Winchester 101's, see pic) Regards, Bob
View attachment 1758646
Bob The gun is new. I have had the problem since new. I have removed, cleaned and installed a J&P spring and pin with the same result. I think if the shoulder was relieved slightly and the retainer pin slot ground to have more forward travel would cure the problem. What do you think?
 

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Bob The gun is new. I have had the problem since new. I have removed, cleaned and installed a J&P spring and pin with the same result. I think if the shoulder was relieved slightly and the retainer pin slot ground to have more forward travel would cure the problem. What do you think?
You could be onto something but if the root cause is due to primer puncturing striking it with a longer throw is not a good idea.
 

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OP: Attempt to correct the issue any way you see fit. My way of correcting any problem with a 725 would be to find it a new home. Hard for me to even pick up a Browning and not have flash backs about Browning shotgun problems and the disgusting customer service that came with it. In the case of the 725 you don't get what you paid for. Good luck.
 

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If you have had the problem since it was new then I would make arrangements with Browning to have them fix or replace your shotgun. You do not want to have to modify every replacement firing pin you have to put into it, and believe me, you will have to replace them every so often. Regards, Bob
 

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Just call J & P get the pin and spring kit and be done. The $40 is cheaper than mailing the gun back to browning or having some unknown guy shave a .0001 off masking the problem. I ordered a spring and pin kit from them this spring and had it in my mailbox 3 days later.
 
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