There's plenty of data out there. Sometimes it works well and sometimes not. Just because they list the combination in their data does not always mean it will always work well. I usually have better results using the straight wall wads in a tapered hull and sometimes dismal results using a tapered wad in a straight walled hull. Some combinations are temperature sensitive. In any event, load a few and try them before loading in bulk. Toss a few in the freezer and try them cold. I've learned that lesson with all types of ammo, even some factory stuff.
Useing 12 ga WAA12SL wad in a top gun hull 1 oz load with 700x which is moderate in courseness the powder does migrate a bit but it'll break those 16 yd targets all day using exact manufactures recipe ,pretty low recoil too.
I've gotten away with loading wads meant for tapered hulls in straight walled hulls, but only when the weather was warm. I learned my lesson the hard way years ago when shooting these reloads in cold weather. Lots of blow-by and inconsistent pressures, resulting in a cacophony of reports all over the place. If you live in southern Florida, you might get away with it. If you shoot in temps lower than 40 degrees, beware.
I'm not looking for any load in general- just a little bit of the technical side of the differences between the two, kind of like what Mike has wrote. I know the straight wall cases have more capacity of the two- mainly curious of how the tapered hulls work in the straight wall hull.
If you use the tapered wads in straight wall cases, you will have some powder migrate past the base of the wad. Depending on the powder you may get some and you may get a lot. The longer they roll around, the more powder will migrate. This will result in some real strange sounding shells that will not perform well. Larger flaked power will not migrate as much as the real fine power.
Basically it is probably not worth the effort and the waste of good shot, primers, and powder to use the wrong type wad.
If you use the straight wall wad in a tapered case, it will work but you may have some bulged cases. They also will probably not work in the new style AA's because they will catch on the sides and will not load properly but they would work on old style AA's or Remington's.
This topic has been hashed over a dozen times. Frostyman has it nailed!
In essence, you are giving up about 0.012" in diameter in getting a good seal on the over-the-powder wad cup. Sure, you can to do this, but if you'd take the time to chronograph these loads as I have done, you stop it. After all, the wad is about the cheapest component in a reload.
I can't conceive any rational reason why one would even want to do this. The blow-by alone is enough to lessen the shot's velocity, AND in an inconsistent manner. I liken it to running a 15" wheel-tire on a vehicle running three 16" wheels-tires. Sure, you can do it, but is it beneficial?
There is a reason that companies like Federal have design engineers like Randy Johnson on staff to design the proper and appropriate wad for their straight-walled cases.
So, is the newer Winchester AA shell considered a tapered case or not? If so, should it use a CB regular AA wad or a tapered wad? I have also encountered the ring on the shell at what would be the position of the base of the wad. If I reduce wad pressure and don't seat the wad so deeply, the bulge (ring) on the shell disappears but the crimps are then shallow and want to reopen somewhat over time. What CB wad will eliminate these issues? I am presently using the CB1118-12 wads. THANKS FOR ANY INFO.....BUD PS, I also have to shoot in some extremely low temps in winter.
I'm with MAH 66 on this one. I loaded wads for Federal shells into AA shells. They bulged on that load and wrinkled on the next loading of those shells.
Going the other way, i loaded AA type wads into Federal hulls. No major adverse reactions aside from lower velocity. I lost nearly 100 fps, but aparent blow-by wasn't an issue. The velocity i try to load is 1150, so i don't have a lot of excess pressure, but when the velocity drops to 1075ish, it takes a bigger lead to bust the clays.
I've loaded AA wads in Federal Top Gun hulls just to use for 16 yard practice without changing the wad pressure on my reloader. They've loaded fine for the most part. About 1 in 100 crimps will want to reopen within 12 hours, so I'll usually let them sit out overnight just to make sure they don't open up on their own. Since I don't adjust the wad pressure, not all the powder burns, resulting in an extremely dirty barrel. I've even been able to blow air through the chamber of my Model 12 and have seen the powder falling out the end of the barrel. They'll break the targets just fine, but I need to give a slightly larger lead for the hard rights on 5 and hard lefts on 1, as the velocity is a little slower since not all the powder was burned.
My recipe for this load is 16.3 grains of International Clays, ClayBuster AA 7/8 oz wad, Cheddite primer and right around 370 grains (0.845 oz, because that's what my charge bar throws)worth of #8. I'll throw these hulls out after 1 reload. Also, the crimps don't always come out exactly circular, so they can be a little difficult to get in the chamber, but they always extract with no problem. Sometimes with new shells or lightly used reloaded shells, I won't worry about putting them in the chamber with my hand, I'll let them do that on their own when I slide the fore end forward, but I can't do that with these. Each one needs to be placed into the chamber by hand.
My latest glitch is a auto feed hopper full of Estates and a couple handfuls of the same color Universals. I'm using the CB 6100-12 green wad for straight hulls -- 1 oz. the Universal wont accept the green wad and shot wont compress so it messes up progressive.
My favorite hull is the maroon Federals which I thought are the same as Estates.
I bought my straight hull 1oz wads from trap happens.com -- fast shipping.
Ps-- why load tapered wads? Happens when I don't have anything else available.