Trapshooters Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've bought a couple of knives lately...one specifically for field-dressing deer. While sifting through the various drawers and cupboards at home I found several other knives that could really do with a sharpen. What sharpener do you have that you swear by, and what sharpener did you buy that turned out to be crap? Thanks in advance-Graham.(PS...I know, I know...shooting related? Maybe/maybe not.-G.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,829 Posts
I've used the tri-angler sharpener for a long time. Once you get an edge on a knife, this unit will keep it sharp with a little touch up. Bill Malcolm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,249 Posts
Two aspects to a sharp blade:<UL><LI>a metal that will take and hold an edge<LI>a medium that will tool that metal without tearing it</UL>

In the early 80s the Army's Special Forces and Rangers found the Kershaw cryogenic blades. They also found that there was nothing better to sharpen that steel than a soft Arkansas stone. and that there was nothing better to finish that edge than a hard Arkansas stone.

Ceramic stick sharpeners can't create properly shaped edges because its impossible to hold the blade at the same angle to the stick each time during multiple passes. A magnified view of an edge created by a ceramic stick will look more like a saw blade than a knife edge. Learning to use a good stone is the best way to produce a sharp lasting edge.

MK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
89 Posts
I second the Lansky sharpening set. You can't screw it up with one of these. I have two SOGs that I can still shave with (though I don't) even though one is my daily carry and general use knife.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,878 Posts
For kitchen knives, I like a simple Chicago Cutlery sharpening steel. For My Buck hunting knives, I use a Lansky set of sharpeners.

Maybe I need to get a set of Arkansas stones as the Rangers know their blades.

Ed Ward
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,189 Posts
unknown1 has the two aspects correct on holding and edge on a blade. I have had two lansky's over the years and felt that they were somewhat cheap. Easy to use, but cheap.

I carry a Chris Reeve small sebenza and it has a pretty good grade of blade on it, I ran into the guy who makes the "edge pro" sharpener above and it is by far the best sharpener I have come across. If your in doubt, you can send the guy your knife with return postage, he will sharpen, and return. His sharpener is not cheap, but it works the metal and puts an edge on it like a razor, and it is easy to use. If you keep the edge up on it, you can use the 1000-2000 grit and work it once a week. I have the apex version, the other one they make will do scissors.

It works somewhat like a Lansky, but do yourself a favor and at least send him your knife and let him sharpen it, you won't be disapointed. l.g.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,754 Posts
+1 for someone that can sharpen a knife to razor sharp and doesn't charge to much!

that would be someone like unto myself.

Shy? who me?

Not!

Al Lingham
Kelso Gunsmithing
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
19,101 Posts
I am a stone guy. Once a year I use the stone to put a new edge on my kitchen knives and I know how to do that without dishing the stone. And then I am a good steel handler. So whenever I do need a knife to do a banner job of cutting I first run it past my steel about a dozen times. My knives are all wooden handled Chicago Cutlery (when made in Chicago) Schrade, and 2 others. I'll get a pic of my block of kitchen knives and post that later today. I sharpen knives for everyone in the family.All they have to do is ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,536 Posts
I have a Gerber that uses the Lansky principle. I second the Lansky, or Edgepro or anything that insures a uniform angle.

I also have a tungsten carbide "V" notch tool that I use on fillet knives, works fine but removes a lot of metal by comparison.

HM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,313 Posts
After 30 frusterating years of trying to find the best knife sharpner..lol.. and having bought every single knife sharpening device avaible from crock sticks, stones, a 2 wheel deal to put on your bench grinder to carbide v shaped sharpners I still wasnt happy with my edges.. I have never been able to get the out of the box sharpness of a new knife.. I had the tool all along but didnt know it.. I was watching the tv show "how its made" and they were in a knife making facility making high dollar switchblades.. after all the work was done a lady took the knife and sharpened it by hand on a belt sander.. yep a belt sander.. so I tried it the next day at my shop and sure enough its back or better than it was when it was brand new.. I think the belt gives it thousands of serations like a steak knife has and it really really cuts good now... good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
824 Posts
I will second the soft and hard Arkansas stones. You need to use them and with use you can become proficient in getting a razor edge on your blades.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,249 Posts
Using a belt sander on a blade makes my butt pucker. It will turn an edge into a jagged saw that rips and tears rather than cuts and dulls quickly as the jagged pieces of the edge curl up or break off.

It's been said that Japanese Katana blades never needed to be sharped after they were produced. True, the cutting edges were made of a fine hard steel but the blades were polished to a mirror finish on fine water stones during sharpening so the edge was flawless. Then the blade was never used against anything harder than itself. That's how to produce a keen edge that lasts a long time.

MK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Gotta throw in another vote for the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I've used a variety of stones and steels, and that Spyderco unit is the absolute best knife sharpening system I've ever used. It just plain works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
400 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Guys, Plenty to think about. I did a search on 'Lansky', and they have several models/levels of sharpening 'system' so I'm a little confused. It is with some embarrassment that I put my hand up and say "I am a klutz"...so I don't want to [email protected]#k-up a good knife by using just a stone or steel, and most of the people who offer a knife sharpening service also cut keys and call themselves engravers...I would not trust them to sharpen a 10c pencil let alone a $50 knife. I'm sure Fate will throw something in my path...that's how I got my rifle and knives in the first place. Kind Regards-Graham.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,249 Posts
<blockquote><I>"Pucker away.. but new knives are sent from the factory like this.."</I></blockquote>

Yes, I know the factories that make mass produced knives do it that way, but the belts that are used and the machines that drive them are designed specially for that purpose and are more like stones than like sanders. That doesn't mean I think they're good; it just means that I know what factory and sharpening shops use.

There would BE no mass produced knives if corners weren't hacked off somewhere.

MK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
Chef choice model 120. I have sharpened every knife in the house with it and you can shave off arm hair with them all!!!! Wife got it for me at Cabela's

Ducky
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,754 Posts
I have had a low opinion of the V notch sharpeners also but recently I tried a Chicago Cutlery V notch tool and was amazed at how well it worked. This is a real simple tool you can get at WalMart for around $10 and requires no skill and about 5 minutes to get a razor edge on Chicago brand knives. (thats all I tried it on) Looking at the resulting edge, it was as good as I can do with my tried and true dimond stone and we used those knives to slice up about 60 tri-tip roasts that day so the edge did hold up pretty well.

If you want to get more into more of a laborious approach then a flat diamond hone will provide good service/results providing you have the skill to use it.
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top