[WYBOO WOOD]

I obtained a quantity of once fired Kemen Hulls today at a local shoot. Kemen's ads.say that they are reloadable. Can anyone point me in the right direction so that I can find reloading data? Load Data.com does not list any data for Kemen Hulls. Or is it worth it at all? Please advise. Thanks Dave

 

[grntitan]

Yes use Federal data. They will probably need the larger Euro primers as the Winchester/Remington primers will probably be too small and will fall out. I'm not positive on the primer thing though. I believe the Kemens are a straight walled hull thus the use of Federal data.

Matt

 

[WYBOO WOOD]

Grntitan: Could you possibly be a little more specific? I have both RCBS and Alliant catalogs and they list several Federal loads. Much appreciated. Thanks. Dave

 

[grntitan]

I mean load it as you would any Federal hull. Meaning any load data for a Federal Hull will work in the Kemen. What powder do you currently use?

Matt

 

[WYBOO WOOD]

Grntitan. I apologize,for some reason I didn't get your complete thread, and responded too soon. I appreciate your help. Will check out the fit of the primers. Thanks again. Dave

 

[WYBOO WOOD]

Grntitan; I guess we are answering each other at the same time. I currently use Green Dot powder. Dave

 

[Baber]

Kemen and Rio arenthe same. Ballistic Products has data using the Halraco wads. You can also use Cheddite data. You must use a larger primer such as Rio or Noble Sport. I have reloaded 1000's of these without problems load once and chuck in the can.

Tom

 

[grntitan]

Dave--You can use your Alliant book or go to the Allinant site i provided above. Any of the Federal loads listed should work fine in those Kemens. I also use Green Dot but have never actually loaded the Kemens. I can't remember if they are a 6 point crimp or 12 point crimp. That might make some nasty crimps if they are 6pt and you use a 12pt crimp die. Personally i wouldn't fool with loading them but thats just me. I use Remington hulls almost exclusively now because they load so much nicer.

Matt

 

[grntitan]

Tom--Who said anything about Rio hulls(besides you that is)? I mean i missed something i guess. I said use Federal data.

Matt

 

[goatskin]

Dave, use FGM-Plastic data, and don't worry abt primer-fit: all primers will fit just fine.

They are a straight-wall hull, and most loaders think a Federal-style wad makes the best bullets with the least powder leak-by.

They are a 6pt crimp, so you might have to change your crimp-starter on your loader.

Bob

 

[WYBOO WOOD]

Thank you gentlemen for your responses. TS is the place to go to for solid info. Dave

 

[goatskin]

Matt, the manufacturer of RIO & Kemen (and Diana and some other names) is UEE, the Spanish giant.

Think 'Miscellaneous Euro-trash' ... FGM data is the default for all of the low-basewad, straight-wall hulls, regardless of origin, including Win Universal, Top Gun, Wally-World Federals, Estate, etc.

Bob

 

[grntitan]

Thanks Bob for filling in my blank spaces. I knew if you were on here tonight that you'd have the answer. I just wasn't sure on the primer and crimp deal.

Matt

 

[goatskin]

Dave, both Downrange and Claybuster Fed-Clone wads are top-notch for both 1oz & 1-1/8oz. Loading 7/8oz (if you want to) is a little trickier.

Bob

 

[MikeyLikesIt]

I have to load these, as this is mostly what's available at my club. I have the best luck with Rio-209 primers. The only other primer I use if I have to is the Fiocchi 616, it's a little looser fit than the Rio. Use a wad for a sraight walled hull and it will make a very good load. As far as the crimps I have used the black, red and pink Kemen hulls and they are all 6 point crimps. Set all your hulls out on the bench before you load them and use a flashlight to look in side of them at the base wad. Any base wads that have moved or are cracked I toss. This only takes a minute and is important. BPI has some wads in their VP line up that are cheap annd have worked very well.

 

[Quack Shot]

Do what you want, but I won't load them. I won't even shoot them from the factory. Check the basewads to see if they've migrated. I've seen lot's of them and for a number of years. I've posted the pictures many times over, have had dialougue with the mmanufacturer about it, and as far as I can tell, the issue is unresolved. People like TBaby will tell you to go right ahead and load them. I won't. If you want the details, the flame war should start anytime soon. I do about the same thing as TBaby, except I chuck them in the can before trying to load them. I then go out and find something more worthy of decent components and my time.

Misinformation abounds here. They are NOT the same as the Federals, Winchesters, etc. They are the closest to the Cheddite Hull. That is the data you should be using for them.

 

[goatskin]

Quack, I'm not the zealot & purist you are, and ME-T are my hull of preference, while noting some potential basewad issues that I accept. :: shrug ::

That said, you need to check your purism at the door when talking abt straight-wall hull-data.

The volume of all ('sporting' to avoid word-games abt buckshot, slug and tactical loads) low-basewad straight-wall 2¾" hulls varies no more than a ML or two ± from a FGM, and even when using bulky powders, making a good bullet is never an issue.

While you CAN have some pressure issues in tapered hulls - which is why you NEVER load REM with AA data & vice-versa - those issues don't exist in straight-wall 'sporting' hulls, and FGM data is universally accepted as safe and reliable.

Primer-fit/slop issues are largely non-existent in <i>current production</i> lots of hulls & primers. The 'slop' issue was always more abt shape, lead and taper than it was abt diameter, and the dimensional differences have been reduced. That said: Wolf, RIO, UEE, NS/RWS/Diana primers seem 'fuller'.

My experience is to stick F209A (the only primers I own) in the rainbow ME-T (plastic + paper, of course, mixed) hulls and go shoot. I've never had a primer fall out, nor have I had one gas-ring (that I have noticed).

Bob

 

[Pull & Mark]

Listen to Tom and Quack, These are Euro shells and need Euro components. They are Cheddite hulls. and need Cheddite data also need a Euro wad and primer. Claybuster does make the Euro wad at a good price, and you will need the Rio or Nobel Sport primer to ensure a good gas seal in the primer pocket to keep the blowback gasses out of your firing pin holes. Keman and Rio are made by the same company and are the same hull. They are now just assembled here in Tenn. to avoid import Tarriff fees. They have metal bases and are hard on the resizing parts of your reloader. That is why some loaders will only load once and toss, while others strain their loaders even more. Some people have noticed that the base wads can come loose and move forward in the empty hulls and they should be loaded on a Mec reloader or a loader of simular design that pushes the primer into place with a tube from the inside of the hull to keep this basewad in its proper place during the loading of these hulls. Now you have all the info and the choice is yours. I say life is to short to load steel base hulls period. Break-em all. Jeff

 

[WYBOO WOOD]

Gentlemen: After due consideration, I decided not to proceed attempting to re-load these hulls. I have plenty of AA and STS (both loaded and empty)for my needs. Thanks again to all who responded. Dave Hunt

 

[Baber]

Quack Shot.... Thought we had a deal. You would stop bad mouthing Kemen Ammo and I would stop tell everyone that you are full bovine BioSolids. Well it appears that you reneged on your agreement.

The truth is that Quacker thought he saw some MAJOR base-wad movement is a few Kemen and Rio Shells and is is on a one man crusade to have the shells banned and anyone that shoots them thrown out of the sport. The truth is that its all a much ado about nothing. I have been told that there was some that exhibited some movement but I never saw one and I have loaded 1000's of these hulls without problems. I do load them once and chuck them because they are so plentiful so why bother. Yes they do have steel bases but I load with a Mec Automate and have no problems resizing them. They do need european wads and primers though.

These hills are great to reload provided you have the right components and know what you are doing. I suspect the Quacker lacks the later.

Tom