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This information ( reprint) may be of interest for those stuck choke tubes.

Bill Sergent




Subject: Fwd: Penetrating Oils






INTERESTING INFORMATI0N


Subject: Penetrating Oils

Penetrating Oils

Machinist's Workshop recently published some information on various
penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out
torque on rusted nuts.

Below listed, a subjective test was made of all the popular penetrates, with
the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.

Average torque load to loosen

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds

PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds

Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds

ATF - Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any
commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with
equally good results.

Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the
price.

ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a
50-50 mix. (ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid)
 

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Recently I had a choke tube that would not budge in my single barrel trap gun. I had not removed it in about one month of heavy shooting. I did have some Kano Kroil on hand as I have always used this in my rifle barrels in a 50-50% mix with Butch's Bore Shine (a fairly common mix in the modern benchrest world).

Well I poured about 2 inches of Kano Kroil into an old plastic frozen orange juice can. Submerged the tip of the shotgun barrel for about one hour. That stuck choke tube came out very easily where as before, with the help of a friend at the range, we could not get it to budge.

The Kroil bath did NOT harm my barrel blueing.

I am not a big fan of Acetone one bit. It is not good for your skin, your lungs, eyes and is just about instant disaster for most gun finishes. It is extremely flammable and can cause combustion on old rags. So be very cautious around Acetone or any acetone mixture.
 

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<blockquote><I>"I am not a big fan of Acetone one bit. It is not good for your skin, your lungs, eyes and is just about instant disaster for most gun finishes. It is extremely flammable and can cause combustion on old rags. So be very cautious around Acetone or any acetone mixture."</I></blockquote> Your own body manufacturers acteone as part of the normal metabolic processes.
<i>Health Effects of Acetone</I>...it's not without effect but, health-wise, it's not as hazardous as you make it sound.

Keller
 

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I used the " ATF & Acetone" 50/50 mix and it will definately will remove the blue from the end of your barrel if allowed to soak for an extended period of time.

And the cost of a barrel reblue is??? I'll stick with Kroil Oil.
 

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Acetone won't cause 'old rags' to spontaneously combust either, it evaporates very rapidly, and a rag soaked it in and left in open air will completely dry in a pretty short time. Acetone is flammable, but so is Hoppes #9 and a host of other solvents, so don't smoke or light matches around them. Acetone can mar certain wood finishes, so some care should be taken, but it has no harmful effect from normal cleaning on bluing in my experience, except to remove any oil present. The amount of Acetone in a standard mix of Ed's Red is about 25% and is a very effective carbon fouling remover, and as long as it's used in a reasonably well ventilated area I've never had any 'fume' issues with it. For anybody who has ever had problems with stubborn plastic wad fouling, pure Acetone is very effective at removing it in my experience, but again, use some common sense, a well ventilated area, and don't use a cigarette lighter to look down the bore. Kroil is good for removing stuck bolts and the like, but it's ridiculously expensive, and not a particularly effective gun cleaner compared to many products that are about a tenth the cost.
 

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Molon Labe
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CRC came out with a new penetrating oil caller Knock "er Loose, I've used a bunch of them and it was about the best

Another one that is good is Wagner Rust Buster, it comes in a plastic bottle and has never let me down, the only thing is it maybe hard to find as the only place I have seen it is in HVAC wholesale houses
 

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I used to mix about 1 pint of Kerosene, with ATF for squirting on rusted parts.

It worked best on parts I had slightly heated, but not hot.(Exhaust bolts/nuts, etc.)
 
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