Trapshooters Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been having some problems for some time now with the inertia block not setting to the second barrel on my browning citori, it only happens periodically and when it starts it progressively gets worse, I have removed the receiver from the stock several times and soaked it in mineral spirits, blew it out with an air compressor and lightly oiled with rem-oil, then blow it out again. Each time I do this it works fine for a few hundred rounds, then starts acting up again.
I read the thread on here about converting inertia triggers to mechanical, and one particular comment stuck in my mind about sticking lead weight to the sides of the inertia block, I tried that today, and here is what I found, when I first started shooting this morning, it started acting up, one of the guys I was shooting with asked if I was pulling the gun tight to my shoulder? I said yes, I've even tried pulling it in really tight where I had to have a really firm grip on the gun to maintain pressure, the gun acted up periodically through three rounds, I then started just lightly touching the stock to my shoulder and I was able to shoot 2 complete rounds without the gun malfunctioning a single time. Does anyone have any idea's on a permanent solution to this problem, or should I just consider having the gun converted to mechanical triggers?
Any input would be greatly appreciated, and or names of who to send my gun to for a conversion, Thank You.........Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,673 Posts
With a Citori, you have to completely let the trigger blade return after pulling it for the first shot. A Perazzi is not that critical to let go. I used to shoot my Citori top barrel first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
miketmx, thanks for your comment, unfortunately that is not the problem, I have switched back and forth on which barrel I shoot first and it seems that top barrel is worse, the funny thing is that if I have it set to top I can dry fire it, quickly move the gun back and forth one time and squeeze the second barrel off, if I am set to bottom first after dry firing one, then I can lightly tap the butt and it switches over, that is how I figured out to lightly mount the gun to my shoulder which generates more movement on recoil to reset the trigger!

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,754 Posts
The extra weight on the inertia block is a bad idea. Sounds like you have a burr or some other friction cause on the retaining pin or in the hole of the inertia block. Evidently your cleaning lubricates that problem well enough to work for a while but it isn't a cure. If it was my gun, I would tear down the trigger group and completly inspect and clean all the parts. Smooth out any burrs you find and reassemble. If you aren't up for that then find a gunsmith that does that type of work and send the gun to him.

You should expect the gun to function reliably without any tricks, you have a decent gun in the Browning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I have contacted the people at Koler to see if they could help me out with this issue and they told me that since I have purbaugh tubes that they wouldn't touch it and to send it to browning, I don't want to send it to browning because I have heard too many horror stories about the service and length of time it takes to get the gun back. I really think I would like to do a true, full conversion to mechanical triggers, has anyone had this done, and what was your experience?
Thanks...............Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
Pat Laibe, Briley, Phillip are just a few that fix your gun for you.

I have a Special Trap and have never experienced a problem except when shooting 410.

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
661 Posts
Joe, is the problem happening only with sub-gauge loads or with 12 ga as well? Some triggers need to be adjusted for lighter sub-gauge loads in order for the inertial trigger to work. Briley deals with this issue a lot because of their tubed gun experience. Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
With the stock removed and selector set on your bottom barrel fire bottom barrel, now with a small screwdriver or something similar, gently move the inertia block backwards until the sear for the bottom barrel drops down, then release the inertia block slowly and see if it engages the top barrel sear, if it does not then you have some wear in the mechanism, a couple of swipes of a fine diamond file over the bit that engages the sear, it's a normal wear situation

Argus tuft
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The problem happens in all gauges, with the exception of .410 it has malfunctioned with factory 12,28, and 20 as well as reloads of 12 and 20. It actually seems to happen more frequently with factory loads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
If it is happening with all gauges then refer to my previous post, I have fixed many of them at the club during shoots, it's quite easy if you have limited mechanical knowledge and you are careful, if you are uncomfortable with mechanical devices then take it to a good gunsmith

Argus
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top