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And now it looks like a zebra. I think I did something wrong. It turned out more yellow than blue. I showed it to the guys at the range and when they stopped laughing, gave me a bunch of un-asked for advice. None of them had actually ever blued anything. I'd appreciate some input as to what to do next.
Thank You.
 

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What process did you use, it takes a little expertise, not a lot
Polishing, cleaning etc
ANY of the cold bluing stuff is generally no good
 

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Yes, it was the "Cold Blue" Stuff. I followed the enclosed instructions, repeated process three times and now have a polka dot gun.
 

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I have a set of Beretta barrels at Glenrock as we speak. Should be done sometime after the first of the year. I'll post results when I get it them back.

Tim O.
F242
 

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Tim i sent a Beretta o/u barrel to Glenrock a few years ago .I hope yours turns out as nice as mine, great job they did .Looked as good as factory no washed out letters from polishing
 

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Many cold blue products are designed for touch up work, not bluing a barrel. Polishing the barrel is very important. Any trace of oil on the metal will ruin the job. Just touching the barrel with a finger will leave a spot. Heating the barrels with a shop light can help. Bluing is a rust process. The deeper the rust goes into the metal, the nicer the job comes out.

I have gotten reasonable results with Brownells Dicropan bluing. With some other paste bluing products I can get better results with a felt tip marker. With a good product, and the metal almost too hot to touch, if the directions say three coats, think about 20 coats.

Pat Ireland
 

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I just got a Franchi barrel back from Glenrock that had some rust near the end of the barrel. I sold it with the reblue. I sent it out to CA to my customer last week and he was absolutely thrilled with Glenrock's work.

Yesterday, Friday, they just got another Perazzi barrel, trigger assy, and forearm iron for another customer. When the barrel showed u0 here from my customer, it must have been reblued by someone who did not know what they were doing, as it has the purple, zebra-like look. It was God awful ugly.

I plan a trip over To Glenrock before or after Xmas to do some computer work for them. I like them so much, I am willing to make the trip for naught.

I have never heard one bad word about Glenrock. I'm sure if you were not happy with something (not heard either), Phil would redo it for nothing to your satisfaction.

I just cannot say enough good about them.

Whiz White
 

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The only cold blue I like is Oxpho Blue Creme from brownells. I've done some entire barrels that came out looking at least as good as the factory blue, but others didn't take the blue as well. It's much easier and takes less prep that the other cold blues and it doesn't have the strong smell.

Weagle
 

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Even after polishing the barrel it starts to oxidize before you have a chance to apply the cold blue. One trick I have used is to apply the cold blue with a pad of 0000 steel wool. The steel wool removes the oxidation, which inhibits the bluing process, while you are applying the blue. HMB
 

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As for the cold blue products, IMHO.....

As someone that grew up around/into rebluing done right......

Use the old Fram commercial.....

Pay a good smith now or pay him later!

Personally, as anything more then a touch up, cold blue products are oversold and for 99% of the users a &^&)^^(*(^_*^_*^_*^ in the making!

AL
 

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MIA: The porting is the preferred style on your barrel.

I wonder, and do you know, the history on the barrel's blue job. Was this a factory one? Sometimes the bluing takes on this appearance when the consistency of the metal differs.

I'm sure Phil Filing at Glenrock will personally see that it comes out perfect!

Happy Holidays. I need to get up your way this summer. Got a friend in De Pere... how close are you? I might just stop in a tip a beer, of JB, or whatever with you.

Whiz
 
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