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I threaded a string in behind the collet and just leave it there. Then when I lube the collet I just pull the ends of the string in a kind of sawing motion to drag some of the lube back there where you can't reach.
 

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I take a 90º small pick and start at the bottom and pull to the top to remove any mashed shot or shot remnants from between the collets before I lube it. Ray
 

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I only give mine an ocasional "squirt" of Non-aerosol WD-40 and I have not experienced any problems. I have loaded in excess of 43,000 shells with my 9000G.
Allen
 
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I use a pipe cleaner with a little marine grease to lube the fingers,
Had the cleaners layin around when i used to smoke,and the marine grease was layin around for the boat,use what's available.The pipe cleaner can be bent into
any shape to get around toward the backside.
 

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I would save the link that 650 posted if you never have removed one. It looks like a bigger deal than it really is. Don't let it scare you. I've done this for a few guys and everything worked out fine. I didn't Dremel grind out their or my collet, found no need to. On occasion I use a light cleaner and compressed air to blow it out clean this section. And re-lube with a light lube. I use KROIL and have not had any issues. Use whatever you want, the lube is to keep the metal from gauling. I have a small oil can right at my press and lube pivot points on occasion. Keep and lubes away from the shot, primer and powder sections. Use common sense. It doesn't hurt to clean the dry sections of you press on occasion either. But, some day you will have to remove this if you run enough shells or have mishaps in that area, dirt, shot, metal slivers, whatever........
 

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Allen-MX8 Be very careful using WD-40 anywhere around Primers as WD-40 will Kill Primers and make them inert. Use anti-seize and eliminate that problem.

Dale
 

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I use silicone spray before and during reloading depending on how many I'm doing. My 9000 is about 15 years old now and has only needed a new cylinder and some detent balls I lost when cleaning it and now the spring from under the primer tray that came unhooked and went flying somewhere when I tried to hook it back up with a needle nose.
 

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Like some of the others, I have left "wet" lubes behind due to the fact that they gum up with dirt and can be messy on the shell. I cleaned everything out and just started using HORNADY GUN CLEANER AND DRY LUBE for the collet. What a difference, quick squirt and any debris washes out the bottom, and the dry lube that stays on does not attract anything. I used this product for several years, and saw no noticable wear on the parts, so it must protect good enough. Good Luck
 

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I saw an earlier post on this same subject. I was using Anti seize applied with a flux brush. Now using STOS P/W grease applied with a Q tip and haven't had a single problem since the change. The flux brush was putting anti seize between the fingers and then I would have to wipe off the first few shells coming out of the collet. I like to use a dry silicone lubricant on the vertical shaft AFTER cleaning. There is nothing for the powder or gunk to stick to since it is already dry and it still keeps sliding all the time. I did work on a machine last summer where the chain link had stretched out a little and wouldn't shove the sleeve up all the way on the collet fingers. New link, and everybody was happy. Your lubricant may vary. Omaha
 
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