[Beni]

I would use a torque wrench set to inch lbs and see where your at now,a flexing tool is not much help beni

 

[goose2]

It kind of amazed me that none of the manufactures ever say torque to a set inch pound #. I am sure they have there reasons but it sure would be easier in my book.

 

[Rastoff]

There is no torque setting because you are compressing wood. No two woods will be the same. One might handle a torque value that another would crack with.

Attaching a stock is an art more than a science, but not precision. It's OK to use a crayon rather than a pen. So, tighten it until there is no gap where the wood meets the metal. Then give it another 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

 

[GW22]

Two Fingers, Doc!

-Gary

 

[Bob Hawkes]

I've had numerous on and off, swapping things etc; a little flex or almost so seems to do it. They are well made, it's not rocket science. Not if I can do it with no problem. Bob

 

[Unknown1]

With a wrench that long I'd use the instructions you got from Kreighoff. The Browning XT uses the same wrench for the factory adjustable comb stocks and the bolt isn't excessively tight when the wrench shaft starts to twist a bit.

I bought a long 5 mm hex wrench and cut off the short leg with a dremel disc. I put a 5 mm socket on a nut driver and put the 5 mm shaft in the socket. You can't generate much more than about 5 ft/lbs of torque with a screwdriver-type handle and you're not likely to over-tighten that way.

MK

 

[Unknown1]

If you're going to include a locking washer in the mix I suggest <UL><LI>type AN aircraft or grade 8 flat washers that don't change shape under pressure<LI>wave or spring washers rather than the el cheapo split washers that are usually softer than the bolts they are supposed to lock.</UL> Waves washers come in both SAE and metric sizes: <center>

</center>

MK