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In the pass it was cheaper to shoot factory shell then reloads, now it's the other way around if you have the components to reloads they are cheaper. Or no shoting at all. As far as it go if you do what you are suppose to do when it come to reloading there should be no problem whether it is a $500 Remington 1100 or a $15,000 Perazzi. Hope this inconvenience dosen't last long and the ammo components be come more available.
Sgoose
 

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Just wondering about the reason for original question.
Do reloads blow up differently in an expensive gun verses a cheap gun???
 

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In the pass it was cheaper to shoot factory shell then reloads, now it's the other way around if you have the components to reloads they are cheaper. Or no shoting at all. As far as it go if you do what you are suppose to do when it come to reloading there should be no problem whether it is a $500 Remington 1100 or a $15,000 Perazzi. Hope this inconvenience dosen't last long and the ammo components be come more available.
Sgoose
It's exactly the opposite down here. Unless you stockpiled powder, shot and primers from 20+ years ago, reloading components alone (assuming new shot, not reclaimed) are at least 20% more than the cost of factory shells. Most factory stuff down here is 38-45 c/shot ($96-$112/250). By contrast, powder and shot ALONE will set you back more than 40c/shot, assuming you can actually find any.

The only people reloading are either those with stocks of powder and shot from the 90s, or ones using reclaimed shot.
 

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It's exactly the opposite down here. Unless you stockpiled powder, shot and primers from 20+ years ago, reloading components alone (assuming new shot, not reclaimed) are at least 20% more than the cost of factory shells. Most factory stuff down here is 38-45 c/shot ($96-$112/250). By contrast, powder and shot ALONE will set you back more than 40c/shot, assuming you can actually find any.

The only people reloading are either those with stocks of powder and shot from the 90s, or ones using reclaimed shot.
It is times like this that a lifetime of hoarding really pays off..
 

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I shoot vintage clays with a 1918 LC Smith and only shoot my reloads. It’s a 6300 lb load from the Lyman’s 5th edition and it performs very well. I’m about to start reloading FTG for my CX.
 

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Isn't the max range of pressure some where around 20,000 CUP? Most of the loads that I load per the book are around 10-10,500 CUP. It is funny how much pressure can drop with the type wad that you use. I shoot a lot of Long Shot. It is loud for sure. But the CUP with the wads that I use is around 9,500. Funny isn't it? I think the loud loads make those around you shutter more than the gun. I think the only thing around me breaking is the sound barrier, and not the gun. (but it sure gets dirty) LOL
12 gauge MAX is 11,500 psi.
Copper Units of Pressure, "CUP" as well as "LUP", Lead Units of Pressure" are very old and out dated specifications, that are no longer used in the firearms industry. Some of the older reloading manuals, still reference those numbers, as they were deemed safe at the time.
 

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A Caesar summit trap can even handle a couple 3.5” 2 oz copper plated 5’s turkey loads when that’s all you got in the truck and see a ground hog in the burn pit. But don’t ask me how I know this. Lol
 

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Beretta 682, Beretta 687, Beretta DT-10, CG Summit Limited (20/28) - all are fed a steady diet that is predominantly reloads.
 

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12 gauge MAX is 11,500 psi.
Copper Units of Pressure, "CUP" as well as "LUP", Lead Units of Pressure" are very old and out dated specifications, that are no longer used in the firearms industry. Some of the older reloading manuals, still reference those numbers, as they were deemed safe at the time.
It is interesting I remember reading somewhere that manufacturers made the barrels to withstand around 20,000 cup as a SAAMI safety number. You are most likely correct. I can really see where ammunition specifications would be in the 9-10K pressure rating. After all we are not out there like P O Ackley trying to blow things up. We are attempting to make a safe and effective load as our goal.
 

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I find factory shells are more convenient and that is why I prefer them.
 

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I didn't realize that shotguns of more or less value can tell whether their reloads are not. I use them and everything that I own. I have some nice stuff.
 

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All the way from my Remington 870 to my K80. No issues w/ reloads. may have to knock a wad out of the bore from time to time, but have had it with factory ammo as well.
 

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I have an 870, 1100, and K80. I am shooting reloads in all of those. I like having the ability to make the load I want. Whether it be a dove load or Handicap load, I can load a box in just a few minutes. Then I don't have to depend on trying to find it on a shelf. There is a learning curve to doing it right and learning how to use your specific loader, but in the end I feel its worth the effort.
 
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