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Discussion Starter #1
Why would you do that? Now that spacer is married to the pad. When you go to change the pad, now you have to buy a new spacer. You could have reused the spacer and used it to mark the new recoil pad.
 

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I prefer to grind the spacer with the pad as well (epoxied together). That way everything lines up perfectly, and it will never shift. It is much more difficult to get everything to line up, and stay lined up, otherwise, and any misalignment will look horrible.

Every professional stock smith that I've come across does the same thing, unless the customer requests otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
"Then why the he££ did you ask if you already had your answer? Do you always find it that difficult to make a decision by yourself??"


The better question is, why did we bother responding to the attention seeking Dr. Lonely in the first place? I seriously think he is seeking attention like a small child does.
 

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I clear epoxy the spacer to the pad. Should I ever take the pad off all I do is get a thin putting knife and tap on the side inside the grove with a hammer and it pops right off.
Steve Balistreri
Wauwatosa Wisconsin
 

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I epoxy the spacer and use a jig that's available from Brownells. Just follow the directions that comes with the jig. I don't use a belt sand. I use a 12" disk sander with 400 grit paper. You are not going to whack the stock because you are grinding the pad on the jig, not on the stock. Grind to and not beyond the scribe mark. Once you are really close with the sander, screw the pad to the stock and finish it off by hand using 400 grit wet paper on a sanding block and use Vaseline (not water) to lubricate it. I use 1" masking tape around the edge of the wood to protect it in case I fail to keep the sanding block square during the finishing process. Clean up afterwards with Hoppes #9 on a rag. This ain't rocket science. There are probably some youtube videos on this as well.
 
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