Trapshooters Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
1964 Wingmasters in 12 & 16g, Stevens 20g, Long Tom 12, Stevens 20g SxS
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been reading a lot on here lately & decided to join in hopes of getting some help with my loads. I’ve been reloading brass Ammo for years & have 10,000ish rounds under my belt but I’m new to shot shells. I bought a Texan progressive, got her dialed in & have completed my first batch. The load in question is 2 3/4 AA, win 209, 15.5gr of titewad, claybuster cb-0175 3/4oz wad & #8 lead. My questions are; how this shoulder look? Im thinking it’s a little low also it’s hard to see but the crimp is very slightly concaved. It’s not perpendicular to the hull nor is it conveyed. In order to get the shoulder/crimp like this I had to increase the weight from .75 to roughly .8 - .83oz & the crimp still isn’t putting any substantial pressure on the shot. The shot rattles a little bit. I have since bought some 6 & 7 shot & will be experimenting with them when more wads arrive. I’m under the assumption they will take up more room on top of the wad for the same weight since they’re larger which will raise the shoulder & put more pressure on the load also increasing chamber pressure. Any tips, tricks or input is appreciated. Thanks
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1964 Wingmasters in 12 & 16g, Stevens 20g, Long Tom 12, Stevens 20g SxS
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Copy. I will lower the starter but I have the final die lowered to where it’s just kissing the shell holder. How would I get more taper out of it? I do have another die on the other Texan I bought that is spring loaded, maybe that one will give the end more taper. Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,436 Posts
You really do not need anymore pre crimp.
Your crimp is already to deep.
The issue that you have, is stack height.
Your shot column is to low. In reality, you really should bump up your powder drop to at least,18 gr. This would accomplish two things, first you would raise your pressure to an acceptable level and second will raise your stack height to get a much tighter crimp.
Good Luck,
 

·
Registered
1964 Wingmasters in 12 & 16g, Stevens 20g, Long Tom 12, Stevens 20g SxS
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Got it. Why would you say “acceptable level”, Is there an issue with running the minimum charge? I’m just blasting clay in my yard, trying to conserve the insanely priced powder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31,961 Posts
Dittos to what mg1polo said about more powder and less crimp depth. You powder charge is too light for 7/8 oz charge. I would also tell you as a beginner, take your time loading shellls. Operate the press as smoothly as possible for best results.

Follow powder loading recommendations from powder websites and buy your self an issue of Lyman’s Shotshell Reloading Manual. The current edition is the 5th. Lots of good information and educational material will benefit newbies.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,436 Posts
Got it. Why would you say “acceptable level”, Is there an issue with running the minimum charge? I’m just blasting clay in my yard, trying to conserve the insanely priced powder.
Smokeless powder needs adequate pressure for a good complete burn. Pressures below 8,500 psi, do not accomplish this. Adding a couple of grains of powder to your load is hardly going to break the bank.
The other choice you have is to use a a 1/8 felt in the bottom of your shot cup. This should raise your stack height enough to get a solid crimp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
83 Posts
Double check the length of the AA hulls and separate out long and short ones. They can differ which will drive you crazy if you set your loader up for a different length.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
The clay will explode into hundreds of pieces just like it always has.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
1964 Wingmasters in 12 & 16g, Stevens 20g, Long Tom 12, Stevens 20g SxS
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Copy that. I just did the math, 2.5gr over the remaining 5400 hulls isn’t that much in the big picture. The burn makes perfect sense, that’s the missing piece of info. The felt is a good idea. I’ll find the balance between more powder, larger pellets & the felt to get the shoulder/crimp dialed in a little tighter. Thanks
 

·
Registered
1964 Wingmasters in 12 & 16g, Stevens 20g, Long Tom 12, Stevens 20g SxS
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just saw the cheerio post. Awesome! Cheaper than the felt👍🏻
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,788 Posts
It might be you are adding too much wad pressure, collapsing the crush section of the wad and lowering your stack height.

Make sure you are not adding any wad pressure at the wad insertion station. If your press has a wad pressure indicator, it should just wiggle a bit when the handle is lowered, telling you the wad's over-powder cup is just seated firmly on the powder and the wad ram is not compressing the crush section of the wad. If it's showing more pressure than just a wiggle, adjust the wad ram up.

If you have no wad pressure indicator, run the wad ram up a bunch and insert a wad by hand, lower the handle, adjust the wad ram down so its touching the bottom of the shot cup and then lock it in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,734 Posts
we have a guy who punches out filler wads from grocery meat trays. They do a nice job, and comments when people see them fly out are priceless.You could get some card wads from BP for the same people. I once loaded somme 30 gauge light loads for a beginner, and used some 28 guage cards to fill.

HM
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
I have dropped in a spent primer after seating the wad before dropping the lead.
Never noticed a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
839 Posts
Crimp is way too deep... WAAY too deep...about twice as deep as it should be. That's one of the reasons you have that hole in the center of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,283 Posts
I have dropped in a spent primer after seating the wad before dropping the lead.
Never noticed a problem.
That's much easier to do on a single stage than on a progressive. In fact, I don't know how it's accomplished on a progressive press, if your powder and shot bars work on auto-pilot. Please explain. ;) ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
That's much easier to do on a single stage than on a progressive. In fact, I don't know how it's accomplished on a progressive press, if your powder and shot bars work on auto-pilot. Please explain. ;) ;)
Easy!
I don't have a single stage press.
I have a Hornady 366 with an electric drive and a spolar.
Placing a spent primer directly in the shot cup as you place it in the holder works on the spolar because the ram that seats the wad and drops the shot is hollow and the spent primer fits inside.
Its different with the 366 because the seating ram is solid and it's a separate station. So the spent primer is placed as the shell transitions from the wad seating station to the shot drop station.
I only do this for 7/8 and some 1 oz loads when I am not happy with the crimp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,283 Posts
Easy!
I don't have a single stage press.
I have a Hornady 366 with an electric drive and a spolar.
Placing a spent primer directly in the shot cup as you place it in the holder works on the spolar because the ram that seats the wad and drops the shot is hollow and the spent primer fits inside.
Its different with the 366 because the seating ram is solid and it's a separate station. So the spent primer is placed as the shell transitions from the wad seating station to the shot drop station.
I only do this for 7/8 and some 1 oz loads when I am not happy with the crimp.
Well, OK, but,previously, you did say, "dropped in a spent primer after seating the wad before dropping the lead.". That seems a bit different than your steps explained above, but if it works, I'm jiggy with whatever works for you.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top