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Can anyone tell me how well the 366 works with the PW electric auto drive with either joystick or foot pedal controls.I am thinking about convert mine or selling and going with a PW 800+ electric.Any suggestions /comments would be most appreciated.
 

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It works just fine. After getting it setup and adjusted it works great have the joystick. No since starting over get the electric drive and you will be good to go.
 

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works...Yes, 366 made for hydraulics....NO. IMO and I have done this the 366 while being a great loader is not built for automation. To many bb's under tray causing bent paws etc etc.

If you want to try it go ahead. You at least will have the setup for a PW when decide to bail on the 366.
 

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An old thread, I know.

I have a 366 that works OK, but it is gets a bit tiring if I re-size hulls on station 1A.
Thinking power could be the answer and although PW doesn't brag about their drive working on Horney presses they do offer a version for Spolar and their catalogue boasts about their metalic press drive being compatible with RCBS and a couple of others.

After all, how hard could it be ? Change an arm length, pivot point, whatever...
 

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I have 2 366 loaders and like them very much but would not auto mate them they were never built for that. Go PW or Spoler for drives if too expensive the Mec has a big following on their 9000 with automation also.
 

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In addition to the comments above, I will add that with a drive, you would lose the "feel" that gets transmitted through the lever that tells you when something is AFU and you can stop in the middle of the stroke. 9 times out of 10, you can tell by the feel just what the problem is. I, too, wouldn't do it.
 

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I own a 366. Like the machine a lot. Best way to resize hulls quick and easy is to purchase a Mec supersizer. You can effortlessly do a hundred hulls in few minutes and examine the hulls for defects while doing so.
 

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Easy way is to call PW. I did a few weeks ago when one came up for sale. Short answer from PW - NO. They tried years ago, couldn't get it to run slow enough, it would bind on the primer drop. I've got 4 366s, found I slow down slightly on the up stroke. And like John391 stated, a Supersizer is the way to go.
 

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Easy way is to call PW. I did a few weeks ago when one came up for sale. Short answer from PW - NO. They tried years ago, couldn't get it to run slow enough, it would bind on the primer drop. I've got 4 366s, found I slow down slightly on the up stroke. And like John391 stated, a Supersizer is the way to go.
Yeah, primer drop is my number one head scratcher right now (since I learned how to stop having powder and shot spills).

The way the primer is dropped flat to the plate and then skidded along until it topples into the hole with the (cute design) ramp on the opposite edge is kinda fun to watch and think about, but I get hang-ups once in a while.
Another one of those things that works perfectly when everything is perfect, but if things get just a little bit dirty in there (a bit of powder, oil or grease) the topple over equations don't seem to work any more.
 

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Yeah, primer drop is my number one head scratcher right now (since I learned how to stop having powder and shot spills).

The way the primer is dropped flat to the plate and then skidded along until it topples into the hole with the (cute design) ramp on the opposite edge is kinda fun to watch and think about, but I get hang-ups once in a while.
Another one of those things that works perfectly when everything is perfect, but if things get just a little bit dirty in there (a bit of powder, oil or grease) the topple over equations don't seem to work any more.
Does this happen on every pull of the lever, or just occasionally? If only occasionally, use a sharpie to make a mark on the shell plate tab where the problem happens. You may have a bent shell plate.

When it happens, move the lever back down a bit to take the tension off the auto-advance pawl and move the plate back with your left thumb a bit until you hear the primer click back into place. This problem usually is caused by raising the lever too quickly. When I raise the lever, I slow down a bit toward the end of the cycle, when the auto-advance pawl engages. This slows rotation of the shell plate slightly and reduces the incidence of the cocked primer catching under the shell plate.

If the shell plate is bent, you will need to order a new one. I used to scratch my head wondering what could bend the shell plate and concluded it's caused by the primer drop tube being adjusted too low.
 

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Nebs is correct on ordering a new shell plate if bent however sometimes in the interim you can get it closer to true if you have a solid welding table like I do out of 1/2” plate steel and you can see the platens flaws as it’s laid down flat. I can take a mini sledge and cold pound it into shape “better than it was” and the problem does not go away 100% but better until the new one arrives. It’s worth a try.


Does this happen on every pull of the lever, or just occasionally? If only occasionally, use a sharpie to make a mark on the shell plate tab where the problem happens. You may have a bent shell plate.

When it happens, move the lever back down a bit to take the tension off the auto-advance pawl and move the plate back with your left thumb a bit until you hear the primer click back into place. This problem usually is caused by raising the lever too quickly. When I raise the lever, I slow down a bit toward the end of the cycle, when the auto-advance pawl engages. This slows rotation of the shell plate slightly and reduces the incidence of the cocked primer catching under the shell plate.

If the shell plate is bent, you will need to order a new one. I used to scratch my head wondering what could bend the shell plate and concluded it's caused by the primer drop tube being adjusted too low.
 
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