Need advice on equipment and procedures to hone out a few choke tubes. Where would a guy go to purchase the necessary equipment etc such as the honing device and I'm assuming honing oil. Any help would be appreciated. Bob in Los Angeles
You must have been reading my mind. Here is my situation. I have a BT99 plus that is overbored to .741". I have patterned the Browning Full plus choke at .035 constriction and Trulock IM at a .025 constrction, Full at .030 constriction and Extra full at .040 constriction. The only choke that gives me a an accepatble pattern at 35 yards is the Extra Full. It is a tight 20" pattern that's great for HC and really powders the singles targets. But I feel it may be too tight for singles and it may put me at a disadvantage.
I was thinking about taking an Extra Full and honeing it down about .002" at a time. My aim would be to end up with a choke that would have a larger effective pattern than 20".
Brownell's indeed has these hones. They are not made to change the dimensions of the choke, merely to reduce toolmarks. A difference in the finish of the choke and bore may or may not make a subtle difference in the pattern.
I have honed bores and chokes on my personal arms for many years. I have never noticed a reduction of efficiency or quality of breaks. I HAVE noticed a difference in the effort it takes to properly clean the bores and chokes after shooting several flats in an outing. :^)
Changing a choke by .002" is not likely to make a difference you will notice in the pattern. Also, if you print 10 patterns with your gun, they will likely look like they were shot from 10 different guns with a similar choke.
Les Greevy once told me "Chokes are in inches. Misses are in feet." I have not seen anything on the clay target field that would indicate he was wrong.
Use the choke that gives the breaks you want and march on. Don't make it less fun and more work! When you get on the line, think about focusing on the bird, not whether your choke has a couple of thousandths too much or too little constriction.
E.Beaver- if you could prove to me your patterns are 20" @ 35 yards, I would pay you $250 dollars for that choke tube. Pattern must be shot with trap legal size pellets. You are trying to solve a problem you don't have.... Dan
I'm going to have to walk that 20" pattern back a bit. What I mean to say is an effective 20" pattern at 35 yards. To me an effective pattern is one without any open spaces big enough to let a target get through without being hit.
I like to experiment so one never knows what might become of just trying tings.
What a bunch of BS! Your pattern work is a 2 dimensional representation of a 3 dimensional object, the shot string. Finding a "hole" in the pattern presupposes that you know where the target was at that time.
Fantastic responses that are highly appreciated. I thought I would try honing myself to see if I could improve my hits. Smokes are almost non-existant regardless the shell or choke. Briley's are in my TM1 and factory is in my TMX. POI is not the problem. I thought I would try my hand at honing a number 10 Perazzi choke (40 constriction) down to about a 32 constriction is the reason I posted. With what I have read I'm not sure if that would even make a difference. Maybe a new choke free gun would be the answer. Hmmmm. Bob
When I first started w/ shotguns I patterned tons to check out tubes. Random patterns shot with random loads will show you that adjacent sizes will be difficult to separate. Like F/XF, IM/F, M/IM, etc.
In the Perazzis, I haven't used more than a #6 for years for any 1st barrel target. At 40yds there is no target gonna get thru there if I put the pattern on it. Ever wonder why the sorta standard Perazzi set of tubes is every other # ?????
For my Beretta play gun I have at least two of every Beretta choke and a full set of extended. I use a light mod and IM and the rest I guess are JIC hahaha
I would never waste my time polishing a choke tube. If a tube is rough enough to need it then you're buying the wrong brand or got a lemon.