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Yes it can be fixed. To perfection by you doubtful. As said above, a bit of sawdust and glue filled into the hole after a backing is in place. You will still have a tiny blemish. If you can live with that, go for it. If not, then spend the money to get it done right. That’s a reasonably expensive gun, and if it were mine, I’d send it off for a complete repair and refinish.
 

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As mentioned above, make sure you have a backing to support your repair. If this is an inexpensive backup type gun as a loaner etc... and you don't want to spend much time; use/melt a closely colored crayon (it's just colored wax) on the hole and you can just rub it smooth with a rag. Your biggest job is removing that glue! Good luck and good shooting, Rey
 

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I’ve read that these Browning stocks aren’t really interchangeable (or if they are, they need to be refitted by a gunsmith), but I haven’t read too much on the matter.
The one I was referring to was perhaps 20+ years ago and the new stock fit right on, no problems. Old style citori gun prior to the citori plus
 

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The checkering kinda scares me if I’m stripping and refinishing. Kinda stinks b/c otherwise the finish is quite nice.
Don’t let the checkering scare you. Strip the stock and checkering with your favorite stripper from the hardware store. Use an old tooth brush to get in the nooks and crannies of the checkering. When done stripping, you can even touch up the diamond points with a checkering tool, carefully, if necessary. Once happy, cover the checkering with painters or masking tape. Use your preferred stock refinishing material (e.g. Tru Oil) applying multiple layers to just the stock and your hole repair but not the checkering which is still covered in tape. When you are getting down to the last layer or two of refinishing, remove the tape and finish the whole stock including checkered part too with the final coat or two. Apply very thin layer in the checkering area so it doesn’t glob in the recess of the checkering.
 

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Don’t let the checkering scare you. Strip the stock and checkering with your favorite stripper from the hardware store. Use an old tooth brush to get in the nooks and crannies of the checkering. When done stripping, you can even touch up the diamond points with a checkering tool, carefully, if necessary. Once happy, cover the checkering with painters or masking tape. Use your preferred stock refinishing material (e.g. Tru Oil) applying multiple layers to just the stock and your hole repair but not the checkering which is still covered in tape. When you are getting down to the last layer or two of refinishing, remove the tape and finish the whole stock including checkered part too with the final coat or two. Apply very thin layer in the checkering area so it doesn’t glob in the recess of the checkering.
Even better question…If it can be fixed…can I do it myself? I’m always up for learning and a project.
I agree with other reply’s that a good backer with a strong material to fill hole then something to match color/grain feel a big problem will be getting the glue off of the stock if you can shouldn’t without messing up the finish you won’t have to large a spot to fix give it a shot not much to lose. Have seen a couple of cracked stocks Phillip fixed came out pretty nice even though it’s not his big thing. Might be satisfactory flx and not coat an arm and leg. Good luck
 

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To me it looks as if the glue pulled the piece out of the wood and still attached to the cheek pad. Pretty thin yet. But maybe can pull off and glue back in. As said add reinforcement inside
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Varnish Leather

It took me a little while to get around to this, but got the glue off and the finish is intact. Going to reenforce the back behind the hole and see what option will work from there.
 
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