I also remember the tread that you are speaking off, ( But not all of the details ) It mentioned using a case from a straight neck bullet ( like mabey a 357 Mag ) run a file on the open end to sharpen it etc, personally I drill thru the back Hard part first then I use a Red Hot heated rod to go thru the soft area, that will work but you have to have a rag ready to wipe off the liquid from the sorbothane, I am sure that you will get more replies on this, I know freezing it also helps.
I'm not sure but I think you can go to the web site and it shows pictures of the kick eze pads to the point of where you can drill or grind to. It you aren't careful you can ruin one pretty easily. Jackie B.
I'd go to the hardware and get a brass bushing of the size you want the hole to be, sharpen the tip by chamfering the inside of the bushing and then put a small "knick" in the sharp edge. Mount it in a drill or drill press, squirt some Armorall on it and drill the hole from the pad side.-Jerald MI
I made a thin wall cutter out of a piece of 12L14 in my lathe. The wall thickness was about .020". I sharpened the end with a file and chucked the cutter in my drill press. First, using a paddle bit, I bored a hole the same diameter as the cutter in the hard back of the pad. Then using my cutter I cut through the sorbathane from the hole I bored with the padddle bit. I put a piece of rubber under the pad when I cut the hole in the sorbathane so that my cutter would cut cleanly through the sorbathane. The resulting hole was very smooth and the piece of sorbathane removed worked as a plug for the hole because no material was removed when the plug was cut. I used a fairly slow speed on the drill press so as not to melt the sorbathane (100 - 200 rpm).
You could use a straight walled pistol or rifle case for the cutter. Just sharpen the end with a chamfering tool. If the case is too big to chuck in your drill press drill a hole through the primer pocket and press a piece of 1/4" bar stock in the hole (you may need to solder it in place). The important part is to use the cutter in a drill press to cut the sotbathane. The cutter will not be strong enough to cut the hard plastic back of the pad. Bore the hole in the hard back of the pad first with a paddle bit so that it acts as a guide in cutting the sorbathane.
I was in the rubber business for 17 years. To cut a really clean hole in rubber, I always relied on L R Oliver, Company in Michigan. They make carbide imbedded tools which do marvelously. You can buy direct. You would want to drill the hard plate with a regular drill but the soft rubber will cut very nicely with the product from Oliver.
I install the pads a lot, and found the best way to make the hole is to take a small old philips bid screw driver, heat the end with a propane torch, and burn it through from the back side. I roll it a little when it is sticking through. Works great every time. No tearing or rough edges.
a different approach would be to replace the recoil pad screw holes with Gun Nut steel threads. You can now just take out one pad screw and loosen the other and you will get to the stock bolt as many times as you want and nothing gets hurt.