Trapshooters Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,421 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I dont seem to be able to slide the wood off the metal -- so cant access the screw ?

any help or pictures would be appreciated
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
1,565 Posts
Hi g7, do you mean one of the allen bolts that the head is visable in the roll of the forearm iron when the forearm is not on the gun?

Thank you Doug.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,078 Posts
If you have removed the second allen screw the wood should come off and you can easily get to the broken screw. Have you ever removed the wood before? There is a little trick to separate the wood from the metal. Basically you have to hold the forearm parallel with a pad and give it a tap on the pad. The metal will separate from inertia. Then you can take it apart and remove the broken screw. If you are not sure what to do take it to someone that does.
1714716
1714717
DSC_0087.jpeg
DSC_0088.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,797 Posts
Great Pictures...of One Way.
Trouble with this Approach ...He Said The Head Had Sheered Off...That would Leave a Short Amount of Hex Bolt Still in End of Iron......Not Allowing It to Be Removed By Down and Away Method.

I would Take The Perazzi Stock Driver...Place Tip ..Into Barrel Lug Slot...Facing Toward the Receiver Iron With A Slight Tap or Two...Iron Will Move Far Enough to Drop Down and Away As Pictures Shown.

Good Luck Gene....No Worries...Not a Big Job...Even for a K-Gun Shooter.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,421 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Great Pictures...of One Way.
Trouble with this Approach ...He Said The Head Had Sheered Off...That would Leave a Short Amount of Hex Bolt Still in End of Iron......Not Allowing It to Be Removed By Down and Away Method.

I would Take The Perazzi Stock Driver...Place Tip ..Into Barrel Lug Slot...Facing Toward the Receiver Iron With A Slight Tap or Two...Iron Will Move Far Enough to Drop Down and Away As Pictures Shown.

Good Luck Gene....No Worries...Not a Big Job...Even for a K-Gun Shooter.
Correct. It is the end of the screw holding it from moving

I did try that tapping it yesterday but not any movement

will fiddle more with it today
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,797 Posts
Glad to Help Gene...It may Take a Wrap vrs. aTap....But it will Slide Back Allowing it to Drop Out and Away.
Best Wishes to You and Family During These Continuing Troubled Times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
You could try drilling it out with a reverse (left hand) drill bit. As soon as the bit starts to "bite"it will back out the Allen bolt. You will have to get a new bolt of course
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
You could try drilling it out with a reverse (left hand) drill bit. As soon as the bit starts to "bite"it will back out the Allen bolt. You will have to get a new bolt of course
This will work if you don't go too deep u will at least drill off the head and pull off the fore arm. Put a small drill chuck on the shaft and use a battery drill in reverse with torque to snap it loose. This is a small bolt so it wont take alot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,375 Posts
This will work if you don't go too deep u will at least drill off the head and pull off the fore arm. Put a small drill chuck on the shaft and use a battery drill in reverse with torque to snap it loose. This is a small bolt so it wont take alot.
The Perazzi forends I have had a part the clearance to slide the nut(for lack of a parts list) even with the screw all the way through it is cut into the wood. That would let you use a standard righthanded drill bit that if it bites into the bolt and turned it give any extra clearance to take the screw and nut out of the wood. Care will have to be taken to not just drive the bolt to deep.

Al
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
148 Posts
Don, The Magician Rackley ... just fixed a 28 ga. type 4 forend for me ... one hex screw would not back out ... just spun
and could not get grab the head . Maybe he will chime in to tell us how he fixed it.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top