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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the Dillon was on my door step when I got home today. I ordered it Monday and it made it here to NY in 5 days which was awesome. I have the machine setup but there are a few "extra" parts and I don't know where they go so can you tell me where the parts below go?




Here's the press all setup!



 

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The top one is a magnet for retrieving misbehaving primers. The large black piece is a spare priming arm and the small white plug goes in the top rear of your powder measure bar.

Ken Rucker
 

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The light is a good idea. I also have one. Most people break the primer flipper when they first start with this machine. ERGO; the extra flipper. Go slow at first and this won't happen. The machine requires a rhythm. And it's a learning curve.
 

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all the info you recieved is right on the money. One thing I did observe from your picture is that you plastic see thru tube coming from your shot hopper is kinked. You can straighten that out. Also if you find your hulls are not centered or aligned at station 3 (when putting in your wad), turn your shot hopper clockwise or counter clockwise. That will move this plastic shot tube, making a slight adjustment to the shot drop tube.
The other day I was reading your post.I think you made a wise choice. There is always someone that jumps in saying Spolar. I was reloading shells right after I read your post, Taking my time and after reloading about 700 I thought of one complaint on your post that it takes to much time to fill the auto feed hoper and primer tray........GIVE ME A BREAK!...........700 shells of smooth sailing. Enjoy your machine, also, if you have any problems....call customer service.....IT's 2nd to none
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was playing around with the machine last night and noticed that quite often when going to primer the hull will not be centered on the 2nd station and it won't primer without getting jammed up. Is there any type of adjustment that can be made for this or does it just need to get worn in?
 

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Rich,

Your machine should not need a "wear in" period. It should be working perfectly right now.

Look closely at the shell plate. I have had a pellet get stuck in the grooves which in turn prevents the hull from getting all the way into the plate.

Also, look in your manual on page 5. There are two screws labeled 13966. If those come loose you will have alignment problems. Be sure they are tight. Before you attempt to remove the shell plate, shoot me a PM. There is a hidden screw that must be loosened first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I haven't even put shot in the machine yet so nothing should be impeding the movement of shells. When the shell turns from station 1 to station 2 it moves out of the "U" shaped carrier slot enough to not align with the primer.
 

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Hoping you get it running aces, straights and flushes-
Nowadays I only shoot skeet and sporting clays-no rifle or pistol.
Heck, I not sure I even get to shoot enough clays to justify a loader.
Perhaps 750-1000 per month. What #'s ya'll shooting? and do you shoot more now w/reloads?
I would really like to have a 900 but I have a 650 all setup in 9mm but haven't used it yet since
I don't seem to get around to going to the range much and can buy 2K cheap enough once a year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would say I shoot more when I'm able to reload. Right now I figure I can save around $15/flat so that is at least $60/months in savings and then whatever money I save by reloading my ammo for ATA shoots. The reloads make shooting a bit more pleasurable too because I can tailor my loads to my needs.

I got the kink in the shot tube corrected. Any idea if any major adjustments will have to be made with using Remington STS hulls vs. Win. AA hulls?



 

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On station 2 there is a small spring steel quide that holds the shell in the base plate. I bent mine slightly to apply more inward pressure. I switch from AA to Rem. hulls and back without adjusting. Mark
 

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Mine switches between STS, Nitro27 and AAs with no adjustments, BUT, I use only the old one piece AAs. The newer AAs snag the wad on the base cup on the way down and wrinkle the case on about 1 out of 10. I've read there a wad type that will fix this problem, but I still have a lot of old wads so I'll just stick with the old one piece shells until I run out of one or the other (or both). Good luck.
 

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I would advise not screwing around with major adjustments at this time. Increase the tension on the spring device that presses the shell into the primer/powder station, and go a little faster. Remember, going to fast is bad and likewise, going to slow is bad. You can be assured most of your problems will be solved with the correct rhythm. Do not get into the guts of the machine, at this time.
 

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Sorry, but I couldn't get back to this until today. Here is a pic of the spring Sprinklerman was talking about:



That black spring steel should push the shell into place at it rotates to station 2. If you have any further trouble, don't hesitate to call Dillon. They will get you on track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the picture, that is exactly what I am referring to.

How do I increase the tension on that? Mine is a good 1/8" away from the brass of the hull.
 

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I am not sure if it is the same on the 12ga head, never had the 12, but on the 20 (yellow) and 28 (green) there is a plastic piece that slips right over the spring and should provide the extra distance...at least it does in the 20 and 28.

Dave
 

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I will try to remember when I get home to look at it. From the pic on page 11 of the manual, it looks like you might be able to pivot the spring by loosening the mounting screw.
 
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