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I'm looking for an effective stripper for Perazzi and Beretta type plastic finishes (polyurethane/epoxy). These are the most difficult that I've encountered. Most recently I've been using Certistrip from Brownells, but there must be something better. Still takes me about 5 hours. Tried Jasco epoxy and paint remover, it's about worthless. Something I haven't tried, but has been suggested is placing the stock in a plastic bag to prevent evaporation while the stripper works. Seems like it would melt the bag. Also looking for a source for stainless steel recoil pad screw inserts. Any suggestions appreciated. Tom Stephens
 

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Not what i thought i was gonna find here. LOL I guess my mind is elsewhere.

Matt
 

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there is a solvent out there under several different names, but I knew it as orange peel. Used it striping epoxy coatings (and whatever else) from floor surfaces. Also used it refinishing some rifle stocks. It is water soluble, very environmentally friendly. Does not evaporate quickly, like other solvents so you can leave it on a long time. Much better than paint strippers. Orange Peel
 

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I'll get the thread back on trac!

Look for one in a spray can, I think peratex(Sp?)makes it. Last can I brought was brown.

Worked better then the paint on strippers. No jokes about the "paint on" needed
 

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Tom... For stock nuts, mash on the above... Dan
 

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I have used paint stripper from Home Depot, or Menard's. Get the extra strength. It will need to be kept wet. Keep applying, as it does take a while to work. I used a plastic scraper, (carefully) for the main stock and a toothbrush for the checkering. After the finish is removed sand the stock. After the stripper is dried in the checkering, use a dry toothbrush in a circular motion to remove the dried paint stripper. You may have to repeat these steps to get a complete removal. Refinishing a stock is a time consuming process. Jon
 

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You need to give any stripper time to work...yet this stuff will evaporate pretty quick. So, I mop it on heavy and wrap it up in heavy plastic...give it a few hours to work in a nice warm place. You may also need to rough sand the gloss of the finish just so the stripper can get a bite. It may also take several applications.

That Beretta finish is tough stuff.
 

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Go to an autobody supply outlet and look for Aircraft Finish Remover....works like a damn on hard to remove finishes...
 

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whichever kind of stripper you're talking about, i'm your expert: i've tried them all. the best stuff out there is citristrip from home depot. there are citrus based imitations out there but they're worthless. it has to be citristrip. it's safe. you can use it indoors. its a gel. here's what you do: tear off 3 feet of saran wrap and spread it out on the counter. stand your stock up in the center of it. brush the gel on. raise the two ends of the saran wrap and seal everything up - the wrap touching the gel or the wood won't hurt a thing! here's the deal, the instructions say you can let it sit from 30 minutes to 24 hours. that's great, you can, but whatever finish that had been lifted off has now redried onto the wood and you have to do it all over again. the trick is not to let the gel dry, hence the saran wrap. it gives you 15, maybe 20 minutes. wipe everything down with a bunch of paper towels. repeat as necessary. then, when you think it's stripped and you're ready to clean the wood up, use acetone. if you see any shiny spots, reapply the gel. repeat. then you can start sanding. good luck with it
 

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Try ZAR from UGL - no nasty smell, will checkering too.

Easy to apply, oxygen STOPS it from working - a stiff brush takes off the residue - a light sanding and you are ready te re-finnish
 
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