I repaired a cracked Citori forearm yesterday for a friend. I suspect your crack is in the same place as the one I repaired. The wood is very thin along the edges.
Most difficult part of the job is getting a screwdriver into the thin slots on the 4 screws that hold the forend iron in place. After these are removed, I made a wider slot in the screws with a hacksaw blade so the job will be easier the next time the iron needs to be removed.
With my checkering tools, I cut a V groove along the crack from the inside. The groove went about 1/3 of the way through the wood. I then cut 6 other grooves about 3/4 inch long at right angles to the first groove. I scraped the interior surface of the area to get rid of any oil contaminated wood. Next, an application of a good two part epoxy was applied over the entire area filling the grooves and spilling out over the top. Make sure the interior surface is not built up too much to interfere with the movement of the ejector hammers. bending the wood near the cracked area will allow some epoxy to get in between the two cracked surfaces. Job, excluding the screw work, took about 15 minutes.
I too would like to learn about the errors in my method as referenced by porthos. Actually, it was not my method I described. Rather, it is a more or less standard method that has been used by gunsmiths for many years.
Shootlow - I also like Brownells Acra-Glas. For a crack, the two part liquid works better than the two part paste. The liquid will work into the crack and the paste will remain on the surface.
PAT i'm sorry, i was rude to some extent but you might admit that hacksawing the screw slots is a little unprofessional ,buy or make the right screwdriver . cutting the crack deeper with a checkering tool is probably not the right way to go. if i were going to crosshatch the crack i would use 1/16diameter or less ss steel or brass you can't always scrape away the oil or grease (A LOT OF SHOOTERS THINK MORE OIL IS BETTER AND GET CARRIED AWAY WITH AEROSOL CANS OF GUN OIL). soaking the stock in acetone or naptha for 1/2 hour or so should do the job. most modern finishes will not be affected by these solvents but you had better test them first. mix your ACRAGLAS. heating it to thin it for the smallest of cracks, and let it thicken 1/2 hour or so for the widest of cracks, that way it won't flow out. TAKE NOTHING FOR GRANTED think ahead. PORTHOLE ; I LIKE THAT!!!!
AcraGlas is my number one choice. A good two part epoxy would be my second. None of those "two minute" wonder mixes or Gorilla snot either. I have a forend that split right down the center and has been held together for over 35 years with AcraGlas. Great stuff.
All Cracks are a lttle different.Advised the Father to his son on Marriage.When you get married you don't have a lot of money so use Franklin titebond ll little slower but as strong and lot cheaper Jon
porthos- First on the screw slots. Take a look at the Browning screw slots. I do have a special set of Browning screwdrivers and they must be filed down even more. I have tried to file down other screwdriver bits but could never keep them hard enough. I have not measured the width of the factory Browning forearm screw slots, but they are exceptionally narrow. Opening these slots so a standard thin screwdriver blade will fit into them seems like a good thing to me. I know many readers of this thread shoot Browning O/U and I bet very few, if any have a screwdriver that will work on the forend screws.
A 1/16 steel support rod at right angles to the crack is difficult to inlet into the forearm wood where it usually cracks. The thickness of the wood is less than 1/8 inch. Cutting V grooves is such thin wood is about the only effective way I know to strengthen the area around the crack.
MikeTMX, I don't know what type my 1975 MX8 forend is but it cracked and I glued it together with Brownells Steel bed. Then it cracked right next to the repair. I'm talking on the bottom of the forearm between the latch and the part that rides in the receiver.I bedded it with Brownells Steel bed after relieving some wood and glued the new crack.I now have 3 repaired cracks about 1/8-3/16" apart and once it sheared off a screw that holds the iron to the latch.It cracked with new AA's so I hope nobody thinks that I had hot loads. I think it's the nature of some types of grain in the wood and I'm happy with my repairs. It's not a show gun,just a shooter.If I was picky like some shooters I'd get it Professionally fixed or replaced with a different grain structure or better quality wood. It's straight grain right where the cracks are. It cracked along the grain. Maybe there is a bedding problem, as I'm not an expert in bedding a gun I wouldn't see a small subtle problem but a Pro would know.
Mike, I have an MX-3 with a Type 4 forend and it is beautiful with no sign of a crack anywhere. The type 4 forend has 2 screws through the forend iron near where it mates with the receiver and my understanding is that type 4 is a real improvement over the type 3 forend that our friend has on his older model MX-8.