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Discussion Starter #1
any suggestions? I had a friend make me an aluminum add-on rib, but in the process, i drilled the mid bead off center by about 8 thou (no clue how i did it, i measured and marked w/ calipers and centerpunched it). It doesn't look like he'll be able to make me another either, so if I want to use the rib he made me, i'll have to fix it. This rib has to match in every aspect to the rib i have on the other barrel which came out perfect (2 barrel skeet set), so drilling another hole in a diff spot isn't really an option. Any ideas on filling the hole so I can re-drill and tap it? I thought about soft solder, and aluminum brazing rod, but have no clue. The rib is going to be powdercoated, so whatever i use to fill the hole has to be able to withstand the powdercoating heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
how about a brass screw? don't know the likelyhood of finding any alum screws on short order around here. also, would you recommend loc-titing the screw 1st, or will the swaging hold it in place?
 

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Drill out the hole as big as practical and tight fit an aluminum dowel into the hole secured with red locktite. It need to be larger because you want the new hole to have be far enough away so the drill won't try to walk over into the seam. I would take the rib to a machine shop and have them center find, drill and tap the hole, it's difficult to drill exact center without the equipment.
 

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.008 and that's a problem? Pretty close to factory tolerancing and awfully hard to notice and probably no affect on your sight picture....

No advice, just an observation.

oh, ok, if it's tapped 3x56 you can have it redone by a machinist to 6x48. It would entail offset cutting of the existing hole and retapping. Beads available from Brownells.

Jim
 

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J-B weld.

Fixes anything but broken heats and the crack of dawn.

I used it on a gas tank 2 years ago, still no leak.

You need a device to center punch a start for the drill. I have one a machinist made for me out of a piece of steel and 2 roll pins. put on rib, twist, and punch through the hole in the center.

HM
 

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BigM- The offcenter is barely noticiable, but it'll be one more thing to play on my mind.

HM- Thought of the JB, but don't think it'd take powdercoating the same as the surrounding metal, so it might end up looking funny. I'll keep it in mind though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
chris- thanks for the link,,,i'll invest in one of those shortly. The reason I did it fast and loose this time was b/c I thought i had 2 ribs to play with for one barrel, and if i messed one up, i had the 2nd, but i bought another barrel and now need the 2nd rib
 

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The powder coating I have seen does not seem it would produce really high heat? I am certainly no expert, but I would see how much heat is really generated. The powder process I have seen they charge the item one way in a chamber, and the paint just "sucks" to the material, a negative, positive thing.

If high heat is not an issue, there are many two part epoxy products that will work. I have used one made by a company called Devcon, although it has been many years. Repair all sorts of things with it. They have plastic steel, aluminum, SS, bronze, etc. in kits. You mix up what you need, and obviously a sample kit would get done what you need.

If you think that would work for you, try some industrial houses in your area and see if there are any sample kits laying around. I used to scarf up on them at sales meetings, and they were great.
 

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Take it to a machine or metal shop and have them heli-arc the hole, any thing else is going to be a hit or miss proposition. Then use the proper jig to drill a new hole, anything that is hand held is going to "walk" to some extent. I use the Williams from Brownells, and use a small C clamp to hold it. (click above)
 

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I have a whole box of 8-32 aluminum bolts. let me know if you want some. This is 32 threads per inch, so would hold i 1/8" thick rib.

arnie
 

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The oversized plug installed and then properly center drilled would probably be completly unnoticable after powder coating. Drill a dimple on the bottom to clear the present center bead to eliminate the need of removing it. I've even used long shank front beads to secure the add-on to the oricinal at the front a couple of times when the installation would accomodate the long stem.

Big Jack
 

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Using a screw to use as a plug will show a gap from the thread.

I would use a drill to make a hole slightly larger than your correction. Then using a tapered reamer, taper the hole. Then take a tapered aluminum plug and tap it in tight as you can. Even put some loctite on it before you drive it in.

Now redrill the hole for the bead on center.
 

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Pat Ireland,

Devcon is the duct tape of materials. I had a corner house by a school 30 years ago, and kids would drive their bikes cutting across for a short cut. Broke off steel sprinkler heads. So I took some newspaper for a liner and put things back in place, then poured a big helping of Devcon plastic steel in the hole. That sprinkler still functions today without leaks.
 

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Maybe online you can find a use chart for Devcon or JB Weld. Look for something that is "high temp".

Myself, I'd open the hole up and tap it oversize, find an aluminum "filler" bolt and screw it in. Then peen the ends to lock it in, finish it flush and then redrill.

.008" is not bad for hand drilling a hole but the jig mentioned above would work fine if you have the room on the end of the rib. Or, have someone with a mill do the re-drill and tap job.-Jerald
 

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You stated..."The offcenter is barely noticiable, but it'll be one more thing to play on my mind"

.008" error in your installation of the middle bead will result in changing the POI at 40 yards approx .6396 inches if the distance between the two beads is 15" assuming you have a "perfectly" straight barrel

Difference would be un-measurable in any conceiveable testing with a shotgun.

Yeah....I think I would redrill it as well
 

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First, Powdercoating bakes on the finish at aprox 450 deg/f. Anyhing that you use should be able to handle that type of temp. Red loctite softens at this temp. I'm not too sure about JBWeld but I wouldn't use it either.

Second. If you're going to re-drill the hole for a bead, then the plug should be as close as possible to the type of material that you're plugging. If you use a steel or brass screw or plug, you'll never get it drilled or tapped accurately due to the difference in hardness of the metals.

Based on whaat I read here, I think that I'd leave it alone or, take a file and file .008 off of one side of the bead.
 
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