I put my Federal paper hulls in the top of the garage where the summertime temperatures are well over 120 degrees.
Before reloading, I inspect my paper hulls and discard any with burn through holes where the brass meets the paper. I also check the open end to ensure that the paper is still thick enough for a good crimp.
I believe that the older paper hulls of the 1970's and 1980's had better paper because 3-5 reloads were the norm. On today's papers, they seem to burn through more quickly and I sometimes loose a big chunk of paper at the mouth of the hull on the 1st reload.
Today, I load mostly Plastic Gold Medal hulls and really like the return of the ribbed hull.
The biggest problem I have found is the primer hole enlarges after the first or second reload. To solve I use Nobel primers for the second reload on. And, like the other posts, I inspect them for the burn through above the base and that the paper is thick for the crimp. I have never re-waxed them, but I have dropped wax on the tops of a few that slip by me and don't have a tight crimp. - Mark
Another few comments regarding reloading Federal Papers.
The original plastic wad for Federal Papers was the great Federal 12C1 two piece wad. This wad compressed during ignition and created an excellent gas seal an cushion for the shot. This wad is no more as it is my understanding that the machine/tooling that made this wad wore out and was too expensive to replace.
I have used the Claybuster 12C1 replacement wad and find that this wad performs very well. You can also use the 12S3 "pushin' cushion" Federal wad. These wads take up a lot of space so you need a dense powder to get a good crimp.
When reloading for paper, I got excellent results from IMR 700X powder as it was more dense than Alliant Red Dot and I got better crimps.
I have a board with 100 nails sticking out of it. I place the paper hull on the nail with the brass base at the top, so if the wax drips it doesn't touch the brass. I bake them at 200 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes until the wax comes out of the paper. Then I let them cool off while sitting on the board and place them in a plastic bag and then place them in the refrigerator for later use. If I didn't bake them sometimes I could not get the reloaded shell into my chamber.
One time I had 8 boxes of Federal papers loaded in my Bob Allen bag and it was raining outside. The next week I could not get the shells in my gun, they expanded while in the shell box.
you want to know the best way to tell if your paper is still good? A pin hole or two is nothing to be that concerned about. The biggest concern is the paper at the mouth. The crimp paper.
All you have to do is feel the crimp, it's obvious to the touch. I know lots of guys that shoot a paper until the brass splits or the hull is left in the chamber. Whatever.... When the crimp does not feel firm all the way around I toss it.That usally happens after the third reload. Most common is one part will feel soft. Say, about 1/4 to 1/2 of the case mouth.
The problem with that besides the obvious is that a weak crimp will not allow the load to get to velocity. If the crimp will not hold back ignition the shell can not get up to speed. If you don't mind erratic velocity then just keep shooting them until they split.
Take 10 4th time loaded papers and shoot them over the crony at three feet from the muzzel. You won't be loading them 4-7 times after you see it for yourself.
Ratty papers get 18 grains of 700x and a 1 ounce load for the last loading. 700x holds velocity better then any other I have tried in ratty papers for whatever reason.
I usally get three reloads out of a paper. Anybody who wants my third time loaded papers can have them as they will be on the ground.Jeff
I love the feel,the smell, and the softer feeling recoil but not at the expense of consistant ammo. Jeff