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Before you do this, put some empties in the gun, close it, and open it WITHOUT snapping it. See how easy (or not) it is to remove the hulls before you do this.

You can order another set of springs, and cut them so they barely push the hulls up to where they is easy to grab.

Call Braxton at KI, he is a legend for customer service and care.
 

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Remove iron from forearm. Looking towards
the rear of the iron at the “sear hammers”, there
will be a hook looking part (one on each side)
that locks back the sear hammers. These are
called the “ejector sears”. They are held in place
by a pressed in pin (one on each side) that also
works as a pivot point. First, release the pressure
on the sear hammer springs by unlatching the
ejector sears. Second, with a small pin punch,
drive out the pivot pins that retains the ejector
sears. Third, package up the ejector sears, the
pivot pins and the two little springs that are
behind the ejector sears and store away carefully
for if these parts are lost, the replacement ejector
sears are two parts that will have to be
professionally fitted. Now this is not totally
necessary but something I prefer to do as one
spring is normally enough to lift the empty or
loaded shell. Remove one sear hammer spring
from each side (there is a small pin on each side
that has to be remove so that the ejector hammers
can be removed. Reinstall the sear hammers
with the one spring per unit and install the iron
back into the forearm.
Now, when the gun is opened, both ejectors
will lift the empty/loaded shells to full height.
This is the best way to turn your ejectors into
extractors bar none. I have shot my K-80 with
this modification for 12 years and I would have
it no other way. As a gun club manager, the
more shooters that will manually remove
shells and pocket them, the happier I am!
Art
 

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Does anyone know if something similar can be done to a 101 Diamond grade? Thanks, Gary B.
 
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