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Ed

In his recipe for the "Ed's Red cleaning solution", Ed suggested creating a 50%-50% mixture of Automatic transmission fluid and Kerosene to be used as a gun oil. Has anyone used this gun oil? Does it tend to gum up? Your opinions please....
 

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The correct mixture is 25% Kerosene,25% ATF, 25% Acetone, and 25% paint thinner. It is not a gun oil, it is an excellent bore cleaner and will also remove plastic wad fouling. I clean my shotguns with it everytime I use them. Do a Google search and you will find the correct recipe and also the directions for mixing.
Fred Wiedemann.
 

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Google it.

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
 

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You are correct.

The write-up about Ed's Red does say that<UL><LI>if you use 4 ingredients you get a good cleaner<li>if you reserve some of the ATF/kerosene 50/50 blend (which you are instructed to mix first for that reason) it makes a pretty good gun oil.</UL>

In the "Mixing Instructions" is found this:<center>

</center>

ATF and kerosene both have lubricating properties so in a pinch they would make a pretty good gun oil (the ATF lubes, the kero causes wicking into tight areas).

Marvel Mystery Oil and some kero also makes a good gun oil but they just both smell a bit stronger than a gun oil needs to.

MK
 

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Insted of the mineral spirits i use turpentine. I also add the lanolin. i make it 1 gallon at a time. This is the absolute best general solvent I've ever used. i doesn't gum, smells tollerable and cuts crud like crazy.
 

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Turpentine was indeed used in the original formula but "Ed" Harris notes as follows:<blockquote><I>"Hatcher's original Frankford Arsenal No. 18 formula used gum spirits ofturpentine. Because turpentine is expensive today, and is also an"aromatic" solvent, which is highly flammable, I chose not to use it. Safer and cheaper is "aliphatic mineral spirits," a petroleum based "safety solvent" used for thinning oil based paints and also widely used as an automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".</I></blockquote>I tend to agree with him in that the point of mixing this cleaner is to reduce some of the cost of cleaning a gun; why make it more expensive than it has to be.

MK
 

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I like the smell of turp and honestly, the cost is next to nothing when making a gallon when compared against Hoppes or some other cleaner by the jar.
 

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I was so inspired by this thread that I went out today and bought 1 quart each of Kerosene @ $5.88, ATF (Dexron VI - GM spec) @ $6.69, Acetone @ $7.79, and Gum Spirits of Turpentine @ $6.59. About $27 retail exclusive of sales tax. And the turpentine was cheaper than mineral sprits.

I'm going to mix it up tomorrow and clean some bores and choke tubes!

Question: It sounds like I can take - is it 4 oz. or 8 oz. out of the now one half gallon ATF / Kerosene blend and use it as gun oil, correct? Then add the remaining one quart each of Acetone and Turpentine, and scrub away.

Thanks to all.
 

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<blockquote><I>"...And the turpentine was cheaper than mineral sprits."</I></blockquote>I haven't used mineral spirits in several years.

The original formula called for "Stoddard Solvent" in place of mineral spirits. Stoddard is a mineral spirit that has been de-sulphured. Kingsford® charcoal lighter fluid is Stoddard solvent and it's quite a bit cheaper than mineral spirits.

I don't know where you live but those prices sound really high. I buy kerosene at the gas station for $3.30 a gallon (I buy just a half gallon at a time), the cheapest ATF is can find costs $3.40/qt, the acetone is $5.49/qt (I use 2 oz per batch instead of 8) and the charcoal lighter fluid is $3.49/qt.

MK
 

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As a penetrating oil, the formula really doesn't need the acetone. The acetone serves only to dissolve wad plastic and it evaporates long before it does anything in a penetrating oil.

MK
 

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Pullit,

Hatcher originally included the acetone in an attempt to provide a aggressive solvent for hardened powder residue. Ed Harris determined that acetone really had little effect on carbon. He left the acetone in the formula for its effects on wad plastic while noting that it would work just as well (but more slowly) on powder fouling without acetone.

MK
 

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I've used both ATF in my version of Ed's Red and I've also used Mobile one synthetic motor oil. The mobile one works best. Slicker than greased eel shit.

Another bore cleaner for plastic residue removal is "Goof Off" and "Goo be Gone"
These products will dissolve plastic build up if you are out of Acetone or your mix of Ed's Red.
 

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<blockquote><I>"Can the GM ATF be synthetic?"</i></blockquote>Good question...
Read the MSDS sheets re: ATF and you'll find that they're all just highly refined mineral oil with additives. There are synthetic ingredients in ATF but I don't know what they are because the manufacturers keep them secret. It's hard to tell from Harris' write-up whether he's more interested in the oil or the additives. I'm gonna stick with the mineral oil myself cause it is probably cheaper than synthetic ATF...and cheaper is the whole point.

MK
 

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I've been using Ed's Red for along time, one thing that has not been mentioned is to keep it off of your wood. It will eat right through your finish. I don't know this first hand, its just what I have been told when I first starting using it. Maybe someone else will know for sure. Rick
 

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I use straight MMO to clean bores when I'm away from home because I don't want to carry a solvent like Ed's Red in my little field box. MMO does a pretty decent job at both bore leaning and lubrication.

From reading the article by Ed Harris, there are some additives in ATF that he felt were useful:<blockquote><I>"...The additives in ATFs
which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants, make it
highly suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner-lubricant-preservative."</i></blockquote>I'm not sure that these same additives are in MMO because it is intended for a different purpose.

MK
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Would any of you who use "Rem oil" on your gun consider using "Ed's Red Oil" (50% ATF/50% kerosene) instead? In other words, would you consider replacing "Rem Oil" with "Ed's Red Oil"? Why or why not?
 
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