[Claysmoke27]

Hello All: I have long heard that the first DT 10s has some issues with double firing, and possible poor heat treating of some components.
Can anyone confirm this, and how can you tell if a particular gun has issues?
I have a chance to get a 2000 model (the first year of production), but am wary of these things. It has not been fired a lot, and the present owner claims no doubling problems. Is there a serial number or something after which they wefre straightened out?
Thanks, CS27

 

[chiefjon]

CS27,

I think my DT 10 is a 2003 model and I have never had a problem with it. I also have a second DT 10 but I don't know it's age, but again, I have never had a problem. Berettas have a reputation for double firing, but not the DT10s. I have a friend who bought a Gold E when they first came out. After 3 trips to the gunsmith he sold it. I would not hesitate to buy the gun, if it is a reasonable price.

JON

 

[Claysmoke27]

I think the doubling issues were quicky and easily fix back when the guns came out with some different springs or sear reshaping, but I am especially worried about the heat treating issues. I have heard of some guns wearing in/lever moved over in a few thousand rounds.
I have also heard of some opening up on firing in wet weather.
Its a beautiful gun, I just don't want to get stuck.

 

[unplugged]

I can confirm those early problems. I had an early DT10 and it doubled after 10 or 15K. I had it fixed and it started again after about 20K.
So I'm not so sure how easy it is to "FIX". And once one doubles ( not fan fire, but a real honest to goodness pull the trigger and both barrels go off at once!! BANG! It makes them hard ot trust!! I had it happen at least five times! between and before both "fixes."

I was also very happy to have traded my 682's for the DT10 and it's "solid" lock up. Both of my 682's had over 75k and one had over 100K without issue.

I thought my new DT10 would be much better. It was too loose after the first 15K. ( The first time I sent it in for doubling!It was retightened and the triggers fixed.) I was told they would need to be done again after another 25K.

For what I expected out of the gun that was unacceptable. I will say most everyone that has one now say they have no problems. I've often thought of going back to another DT10, but after a "bout" with a K80 and now back to a 682 that works great, I can't see trying again after my first experience.

So would i BUY an early gun, NO WAY. Would I buy a "new later" DT10, they seem to have fixed the problem. What I can't say is when they "became fixed!"

 

[JH]

Talk to Rich Cole. He did a lot of early DT-10 repairs and knows when the problem was "fixed." I too passed on many a gorgeous early DT-10s.

 

[Claysmoke27]

I just sent an email to Rich on Friday, but have heard he is down in Naples setting up the new shop there. I do hope to hear fromm him yet.

 

[mflora]

Personally I am glad this thread keeps reappearing as it probably helped me buy one of the original 30 DT10 1999 Vandalia combo sets at a great price. Mint condition. Had Wenig do a set of wood and have $2500-4000 left over to shoot vs another P, K or American K gun. Took the gun to the Beretta Gallery in Dallas. Gunsmith took a quick look at trigger and said gun fine. Apparently a few early guns had a sear that was the wrong shape. Easily fixed.
As for the top lever moving toward center, it is centered on many of the new guns I have looked at due to the cross-bolt locking system. Feels different than my Perazzis but a great gun. The interesting issue w/ early DT10s is the choke tubes. Optima dimensions and Mobil threads. Not available anywhere including Beretta. No problem for Briley but custom made. I wonder how many of these barrels were made before they were changed?
Mark

 

[Claysmoke27]

I talked with Rich today and he gave me the low down. A small number of hammers in early gun did not get properly heat treated, and so the sear locking surfaces wear and can allow dis-engagement (firing!) without the trigger being pulled.
The hardness can be checked with a file, they should not cut with a file stroke, the file should get some teeth bent/damaged intead.
If they are soft, they need replacement. About a $200 job.

He couldn't say about any particular date or serial number range, but didn't seem to feel there were a lot of bad ones.

 

[skeezix]

I bought mine used in 2005. The bbls date to 2002 or 2003 proof date. The original owner told me he had some issues with the original triggers doubling - but that it had been fixed. I've got 40k or so rounds through it an it has never doubled. It did start to not fire the second bbl on occasion a year or so back. I sent the triggers to Phillips Gunsmithing and they came back perfect.

john