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You can replace either or both easily. Not necessary to replace both. I have been shooting my DT-10 for 20 years, and have replaced both over the years. Mine is set up for release/pull on my unsingle combo for doubles. Obviously release on bottom single. Remove hammers, & push out the pin that holds the sears in. Note the position of the ear on the back of the sear. It must face inward for the selector. Use a pointed slave pin to position all the parts for reassembly, and then tap in the regular pin. Be sure to note the positioning of the sear spring when putting it back together, the V should face forward towards the hammer. It's about a 10 min job. With a new sear you will want to check your trigger pull poundage. "If it is critical for you", you may have to do a little polishing of the hammer and or sear where the sear grabs the hammer. This will add some time to the job. If trigger pull is not important to you, don't worry about it. GOOD LUCK!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You can replace either or both easily. Not necessary to replace both. I have been shooting my DT-10 for 20 years, and have replaced both over the years. Mine is set up for release/pull on my unsingle combo for doubles. Obviously release on bottom single. Remove hammers, & push out the pin that holds the sears in. Note the position of the ear on the back of the sear. It must face inward for the selector. Use a pointed slave pin to position all the parts for reassembly, and then tap in the regular pin. Be sure to note the positioning of the sear spring when putting it back together, the V should face forward towards the hammer. It's about a 10 min job. With a new sear you will want to check your trigger pull poundage. "If it is critical for you", you may have to do a little polishing of the hammer and or sear where the sear grabs the hammer. This will add some time to the job. If trigger pull is not important to you, don't worry about it. GOOD LUCK!!
Thanks a lot! I was afraid that i'd have to file/polish sear and hammer.

I actually want trigger pull to be heavier. It's too light for my taste. (is it too bad to wish 2stage trigger for a o/u?:D)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
also, you will have to push the trigger UP to align the hole with the holes in the sears.
yeah... I'm aware of that. Was not careful enough first time and pulled out a punch. Trigger spring immediately pushed trigger down and I had to do "align being blind" thing.

oh, oh. One more question: trigger spring and inertia block spring. Do I need to worry about them? (they work...) Is it hard to replace rebounding trigger spring? it's deep in the mechanism, i.e. do I have to remove leaf springs or detach/unscrew trigger guard?
 

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How many rounds on the gun. You could replace the hammer springs & should increase the poundage. Otherwise, you could do just a little honing on the hammer & sear to rough it up a bit. Start with the hammer, it is less critical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What do you mean by rebounding trigger spring. There is a second pin in front of the hammer to keep it from going down too far. If you don't have the pin, make one from a drill bit that size.
see this little coil spring inside the trigger frame? (I see 2 coil spring in the trigger mechanism: 1 for inertia block and 1 pushes trigger down/back)
Nickel Gas Household hardware Tool Bicycle part
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
How many rounds on the gun. You could replace the hammer springs & should increase the poundage. Otherwise, you could do just a little honing on the hammer & sear to rough it up a bit. Start with the hammer, it is less critical.
Have no idea how many rounds through the gun. But it's old, 15years old.

roughing: will 800 sandpaper work?
 

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I see the coil springs you are referring to. No need to take those out. Sand paper will not do the job. Sandpaper against steel? steel wins every time. You can get a set of good files at most hardware stores. The thing about honing the steel, you can always file a little more, but you can't put it back. A couple of swipes with the file, put it back together & check trigger pull. If it needs more, take it out & give it a little more. Be sure to watch your angle of attach on the sear if you are filing that. This is crucial work, if you are not confident, have a gunsmith do it. The first thing I would do is replace the sear spring & test it.
 

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Phillips did mine. Excellent work. He can check it all over then. I do a lot of Beretta work. However, if I am having trouble, I send it to him, since he did my release/pull. I trust his work. You can call him in Avery TX to see how busy he is. Then send it. He can set it to whatever trigger pull poundage you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I see the coil springs you are referring to. No need to take those out. Sand paper will not do the job. Sandpaper against steel? steel wins every time. You can get a set of good files at most hardware stores. The thing about honing the steel, you can always file a little more, but you can't put it back. A couple of swipes with the file, put it back together & check trigger pull. If it needs more, take it out & give it a little more. Be sure to watch your angle of attach on the sear if you are filing that. This is crucial work, if you are not confident, have a gunsmith do it. The first thing I would do is replace the sear spring & test it.
Sear spring changed pull weight from 1150gr to 1250gr for first, second one is like 100-150 grams heavier.
I also changed sears ("for fun") - had to file it a bit (where inertia block catches the sear).
Everything was good with anything bug RGC ammo. Doubled again...

One more question: can recoil reducing device be a reason for that? gun equipped with this one: Recoil Systems

I have kick-eez recoild pad, should I try it or it's a waste of time and recoil reducer has nothing to do with this?


Should I buy another trigger group and send this one to a gunsmith?
 

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Sear spring changed pull weight from 1150gr to 1250gr for first, second one is like 100-150 grams heavier.
I also changed sears ("for fun") - had to file it a bit (where inertia block catches the sear).
Everything was good with anything bug RGC ammo. Doubled again...

One more question: can recoil reducing device be a reason for that? gun equipped with this one: Recoil Systems

I have kick-eez recoild pad, should I try it or it's a waste of time and recoil reducer has nothing to do with this?


Should I buy another trigger group and send this one to a gunsmith?
The motion of the recoil reducer could be causing the double. Try holding the gun super firmly against your shoulder and see if you can make it stop doubling. If I shoot my DT from the hip and don't grip it really firmly, I can get it to double.

If you want the triggers set to higher poundage, I'm with the folks who say send it in.

-Scot
 

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I've never had to file a part in the trigger, especially the sear, not sure why you did this, and have you changed the inertia block spring ??? My DT-10 had a counter coil and never had any problems doubling,,,, but i shoot Phillips release's
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I've never had to file a part in the trigger, especially the sear, not sure why you did this, and have you changed the inertia block spring ??? My DT-10 had a counter coil and never had any problems doubling,,,, but i shoot Phillips release's
yup, replaced that little spring (with a plunger)

Don't know... just for fun...
 
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