Down Range and other lubed wads
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Dave P, I think DownRange would applaud ypur "lubed" comment. In fact, I think they would chuckle at your comment. Believe me, as well as thousands of other shooters, these wads are made of the finest plastics you will find. There Ain't no lube but they are the slickest wad on the market What a compliment you paid them though.
What ever DR is using in their wads, the Blue and Green Duster's have been using for years. I remember when I first used the B & GD wads I had to employ a completely new grip on them or they would all have been on the floor. Whatever the ingredient is, it makes using them a pleasure. As to what effect they have on pressure etc., in your question, the question is good for someone that wants to add another dollop of data to their intellect without adding another average target to their shooting history.
I've just started using DR wads in the past year and I love them. What made my switch was 1.) The DRA 12 wad works great in the AAHS shell. 2.) Kevin's Christmas give away, he strikes me as the kind of guy that cares about his customers. Anyone that would run that kind of deal shows me his company cares about the sport. The wads are great too......
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While I don't know what down range puts into their plastic I do know a few things about plastic after 20 some odd years of molding!
I love posters that make fun of someone. When that person doesn't even know what there talking about.
While it's true that different grades of plastic makes a difference.Their is in fact additives added to plastic to allow parts to decrease friction ie LUBE. Kemamide is basically, one of the top ones which gives it a slick oily feel depending on how much is added you sometimes will get a white residue on part. I havent loaded down range wads so don't know.
That is why these type of wads load smoother than others without that additive.
Or to make it easier plastic with kemamide will load easier than the same plastic without.
Kemamide is expensive which factors into price of part.
As far as pressure dont know.
I would have to say a benefit would be less plastic fouling in your barrel compared to using cheaper wads. Easier loading is probablg the biggest benefit.
Tom R
I love posters that make fun of someone. When that person doesn't even know what there talking about.
While it's true that different grades of plastic makes a difference.Their is in fact additives added to plastic to allow parts to decrease friction ie LUBE. Kemamide is basically, one of the top ones which gives it a slick oily feel depending on how much is added you sometimes will get a white residue on part. I havent loaded down range wads so don't know.
That is why these type of wads load smoother than others without that additive.
Or to make it easier plastic with kemamide will load easier than the same plastic without.
Kemamide is expensive which factors into price of part.
As far as pressure dont know.
I would have to say a benefit would be less plastic fouling in your barrel compared to using cheaper wads. Easier loading is probablg the biggest benefit.
Tom R
Forget the motor mica crap. The only thing it does is make a mess. I'd also take with a grain of salt ANY manufacturer's claim that their "slick", "super" or otherwise "wonderful" wad/material increases velocity for "free" or other such claims.
I once bought all these bogus claims- higher velocity, better patterns, less fouling, etc. Testing proved it all to be bogus, except, in some cases the fouling part. In response to Spolar's claim that their "special" slick orange plastic was so slippery you would get an extra 50fps from your existing load just by changing wads:
I tested their claim by loading my standard handicap shell with Fig-8, The orange Spolar Windjammer wad, the authentic Windjammer wad and the DRM Windjammer clone. Guess what? 10-shot chrono strings proved they were almost identical. All had excellent SDs, and the average velocity spread between wads was a WHOPPING 9fps. The Fig-8 was the fastest, and the Spolar was the SLOWEST. Not only did I not get the promised 50fps, I actually LOST 9fps.
Claybuster wads give the most plastic fouling, by a really, really great margin. I simply will not use them, even for free. Everything else I use seems to be about the same, fouling-wise.
I once bought all these bogus claims- higher velocity, better patterns, less fouling, etc. Testing proved it all to be bogus, except, in some cases the fouling part. In response to Spolar's claim that their "special" slick orange plastic was so slippery you would get an extra 50fps from your existing load just by changing wads:
I tested their claim by loading my standard handicap shell with Fig-8, The orange Spolar Windjammer wad, the authentic Windjammer wad and the DRM Windjammer clone. Guess what? 10-shot chrono strings proved they were almost identical. All had excellent SDs, and the average velocity spread between wads was a WHOPPING 9fps. The Fig-8 was the fastest, and the Spolar was the SLOWEST. Not only did I not get the promised 50fps, I actually LOST 9fps.
Claybuster wads give the most plastic fouling, by a really, really great margin. I simply will not use them, even for free. Everything else I use seems to be about the same, fouling-wise.
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I've never had a problem with excessive fouling in any of the wads I've used, including Claybuster.
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So, with all that said what is the answer to my original question?
Dave,
Just pick a wad and shoot it. Practice will only make you a better shot!!
I've played the game of trying different wads, didn't make a bit of difference.
Stayed with Down Range stuff and have been Happy Happy Happy ever since.
NOW if I could just figure out how to keep my head on the stock on every shot, I would improve my hits!!
Dave,
Just pick a wad and shoot it. Practice will only make you a better shot!!
I've played the game of trying different wads, didn't make a bit of difference.
Stayed with Down Range stuff and have been Happy Happy Happy ever since.
NOW if I could just figure out how to keep my head on the stock on every shot, I would improve my hits!!
Dave, the answer to your original question is nothing, not a thing. Your best best is to use a wad designed specifically for the hull you are reloading, and to select that wad from a good manufacturer. For example, I use Remington wads because I reload STS hulls. I also use the DRM clones of those wads. I do use two other wads for specific loads, but experience has taught me they work fine.
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1,071 Posts
The plastic build up with Claybuster wads might be barrel specific? In my Beretta's, claybuster wads leave a ton of plastic behind. That is 390, several 391's, 687 JE combo. DR does not.
In my Infinity SBT, any wad will shoot all day long and leave virtually nothing behind?
Could be bore, as the Beretta's are not doubt fairly standard, where the Infinity is .740?
Most of the build up is in the choke tubes, so I just chalked it up to fit and finish, and shoot DR in them. Solves the problem.
In my Infinity SBT, any wad will shoot all day long and leave virtually nothing behind?
Could be bore, as the Beretta's are not doubt fairly standard, where the Infinity is .740?
Most of the build up is in the choke tubes, so I just chalked it up to fit and finish, and shoot DR in them. Solves the problem.
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