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I’ve had this happen a few times. I think it is when the crimp die doesn’t rotate to fit the crimp on the hull. That’s what it acts like on my presses. But as stated above, it doesn’t make a difference to the target.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm finding more of these after the 3rd or 4th reload but I'm trying to stretch these Nitro's and STS's as long as I can. I guess I'll reload them until I have to tape them shut.
 

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Does anyone find that the hull on the left leads to the crimp on the right? Thanks View attachment 1700255
It absolutely does but, as others have said, doesn't make any difference. I occasionally get one that looks like that, or worse. If I can keep track of it I will cull it out but, again, makes no difference.
 

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When I am sorting hulls, if I find a hull like that I push the hull with my hand into the crimp starter of the press to see if starts to crimp correctly. If not I chuck it.
 

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Yes, as others have said. When the hull doesn't have well-defined folds for the crimp, the crimp die doesn't rotate to match the (ill-defined) folds in the hull. The result is whatever comes out. I do try to toss the hulls that are split too far down and those, like the one you pictured, that are likely to result in a poor crimp. Even then, it still happens occasionally. I have a cheap ink stamp pad that I use to ink the bottom of crappy hulls that have been loaded, so I can know to toss them when their turn comes up in the gun. As long as they don't leak shot, I shoot them.
 

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i have had crimps like that with my Mec 9000e and with my Spolar, i shoot them and then chuck them in the trash i put a black X on the base with a sharpie
 

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You could try using a smooth (cone) crimp starter. They are used primarily for paper hulls but work fine for petaled crimps as well. Using one takes the need for the crimp starter to rotate out of the equation.
 

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Sorry RFinc, but the roll crimp starter won't fix those. I've tried a million times. You see it alot with gun club hulls. That's really all I reload. I have sts and Nitros I reload for special occasion but yes load them shoot them then they go in the trash.

Side note I did run some of those funny crimps over a friends chrony the other day and they were WAY FASTER than my normal crimped ones. I wobder if the other petals that fold first put more pressure on components kinda like the difference if you crimp too deep.
 

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You could try using a smooth (cone) crimp starter. They are used primarily for paper hulls but work fine for petaled crimps as well. Using one takes the need for the crimp starter to rotate out of the equation.
I use the cone-style crimp starter as well. Works just fine on plastic reloads.
 

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The cone style is all I use - 6 or 8 point, paper or plastic, it crimps them all just fine. Take a Dremal tool and grind out the plastic ribs if you want to make one for any gauge.
 

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2016-07-26 10.49.09 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/, on Flickr
In the above picture of Federal Field and Target hulls you can see that some of the hulls are wide open with no crimp memory. I learned to just throw away the hulls with no crimp memory.

I always seemed to get 1 or 2 of these bad crimps in 300 to 400 loads.

When ever I got messed up crimps on my target ammo I set them off to the side until I got a full box of rejects and then shot them at Trap or Skeet practice and then threw them all in the trash.

I never shot them at registered targets. I didn't want to be cruising along going straight and look down at a reject crimp or a shell with special felt pin marks on it while loading my gun. Seeing a messed up crimp could be all it took for me to lose my concentration.
 
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