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If I load a crapload of shells and they set for a long time ( Year or so ) they tend to open up. Is there a way to stop this ?? Is there a tool made to melt the tip like on factory shells ?? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Match your components better. If your crimps are opening, you have too tall of a wad for your load.

Properly matched components will allow even a light crimp to remain shut.
 

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I've shot shells I reloaded when I was 16/17 years old.. 30 years later.. Got to have the crimp locked down.. a wee bit caved in.. and they stay shut.. If they are the least bit raised up.. after many years.. they will open up..
 

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Hi

Have had this problem with old AAs. Went to deeper wad - use 1 1/4 instead of 1 1/8 and problem went away.

I guessed that the root cause was too much in too little!

Regards
 

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One year I was loading shells for a Texas marathon week, which means several thousand shells: 1 1/8 oz. in Gold Medal cases, genuine 12S3 wads, but Green Dot powder as an experiment which required a bit bigger bushing than I normally use. Rather than end up with an impossible task of boxing them all at once, I disciplined myself to load about a flat, box them, and transfer them to the motorhome is this nice, orderly, and organized manner.

When I got to Texas, almost all had opened up. What a mess! As f100 says, there are plenty of "listed" loads which work, but plenty which don't, as well. Pheasantmaster has noticed that I seem to have a chip on my shoulder about Green Dot and this is why.

Neil
 

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neil, Iam sorry for the occurence. If need be, I will try and send data on reloading or if you want to throw a loader in the motorhome I will be happy to give hands on course.
 

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Well, shooter, it boils down to crimp needs to be approx. the depth of a dime's thickness, bulky powders/slow burning powders may require a shorter wad, and, as said before, make sure it's the appropriate wad in the first place. I have also shot reloads, even papers with lasting crimps that I assembled in the late '70s. That's the 1970s not just after the civil war 70s.....breakemall....Bob Dodd
 

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Using a denser powder seems to help, as would a shorter wad, or less shot. A decent crimp will hold for a lifetime. If the crimp is bulged, it could eventually open up. Bulkier powders will take up a little more room in the hull and require a little adjustment to accomodate them.
 
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Par tof the problem is trying to get exactly 1oz or 1 1/8oz in the hull,
another reason i use adjustable charge bars on all my mecs.
After years of experience, you get good at knowing just how
high the shot needs to sit for a good crimp.
If the shots up into the base of the folds,
it's usually not good,well below the fold rim, isn't good either.
I adjust the bar, and if it's throwing 1 1/16oz for a good crimp,
that's what i load.
A shot payload of 420grs,470grs, 510grs,whatever it takes,
i don't really give a rip what the exact payload is, as long as the shell crimps nice.
 

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Excess wad pressure justs crushes the wad to make more room in the hull so it will crimp. Depending on the wad it may spring back opening the shell at a later time. It's a better practice to put together a load with the proper components than crushing the wads,IMHO.
 

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Pretty simple answer. Too much in too small of a space. Use different wads and the problem will go away. I found claybusters to be famous for this. Their 1 1/4 oz wads wont hold that much, come up to far , therefor you have a weak crimp.
 

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Measure 9/16" from shot top to hull top and you won't have a problem. You should not need excessive wad pressure, even finger seathed should be just fine. Just match the components to get dimension needed and you will be OK.
 

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I had that problem once with older AA cases, the full-circled Remington Fig.8 wad and 18.5 Green Dot powder. Actually these did not have to sit long - took about a week or two and the crimps opened. Corrected the problem with using the white AA wad or even the shorter Fig. 8 wad. Darrell
 

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You should NOT have have ANY wad pressure. When reloading, the top of the wad should be about the same height at the top of the hull "ring" or about 2 3/4".

Wad pressure was a thing of the past when fibre wads were used.

The above poster is correct that if you have to put pressure on the wad to get a seated wad, then you are not using the correct wad for the volume of powder you are using.



Whiz
 

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????? That is exactly what my Rem and Win loads look like before I crimp.

Win primer,Win or Rem hull,20grs Green Dot,Win WT12(orange)wad 40psi,1oz 8s.If I use 1 1/8 shot,some shot is above the wad,this I never do. If I load 1 1/8oz shot I use 1 1/4 oz wads.(Win.WAA12F114)(knock on wood)I never have bloopers.

Has always worked for me,great patterns but I am always open for something different.....Without an open mind,we are stuck in the mud.

Always trying to help.....GOOD LUCK
 

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When I first learned to load a lot of years ago it was recomended that I use a candle to drip wax over the crip to keep the shot from dribbling out the hole at the center of the crimp. I suppose I should stop doing that now that I have been shown the right way to crimp a shell.


Letts
 
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