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Cocked Wads in Spolar

4559 Views 75 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  creeker
My Spolar is giving me a slightly cocked wad about every 20-30 reloads not to mention the crimp starter will occasionally not correctly start the crimp and it ends up looking very ugly. These do not always happen at the same time so its confusion.

The wad fingers are new and the crimp starter looks good. Any ideas?
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I would recheck the wad guide fingers and make sure that the fingers have not gotten weak,I have had that and replaced a wad guide,with another wad guide,that I had on hand,but it was new and stored for many years?Do,what the others posters,have said,Not many people know that the wad guide arm index's with a part called a wad cam dowel pin,it is rare,that this part break's but it has happened to me on a press.If this part breaks you will know it, as the wad ram coming down will hit the wad guide and if a powered device is used,breakage will occur!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I use Remington hulls, a mixture of once fired and more than once fired but doesn't seem to make a difference. I will trim the wad fingers to see if that makes a difference - seem to remember doing that in the past for some reason but don't remember!
 

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I would recheck the wad guide fingers and make sure that the fingers have not gotten weak,I have had that and replaced a wad guide,with another wad guide,that I had on hand,but it was new and stored for many years?Do,what the others posters,have said,Not many people know that the wad guide arm index's with a part called a wad cam dowel pin,it is rare,that this part break's but it has happened to me on a press.If this part breaks you will know it, as the wad ram coming down will hit the wad guide and if a powered device is used,breakage will occur!
I have had a perfect storm. The shot tube backed out some then a piece of shot rolled into the dowel pins recess & cause the the entire arm to misalign & hit the shot drop tube while running on hydraulics. Now there’s a fine kettle of fish. I had to dress the bottom of the shot tube & replace the roll pin. Left a nice scar on the wad fingers retaining collar. Live & learn.
 

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Trimming the wad guide fingers an eighth of an inch was a hint directly from Carter Spolar . Great advice that should be followed . It works......
 

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Adjust or cut the choice is yours. Perhaps Carter’s suggestion to cut was taking into consideration loosening the set screw & raising the arm is to complicated for some. Because you would also have to insure adequate clearance between the arm & shot drop tube.
 

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Spolar has some upgrades that take care of the problem. One is spreading the top of the shell that lets the wad insert as it should. I had my Spolar upgraded, cleaned, etc about a year or so ago and never looked back. Contact Spolar.
 

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The expander hmmm. On my older Spolar the powder drop tube always opened the hull enough to complete the reloading process without issue. You have to consider all the machines out there getting the job done without incident On my newer Spolar I have noticed some design improvements. The new steel primer block & shaft, how the spent primer bin attaches & a much smaller diameter shot drop tube which works better with 8 petal wads in fact my older machines fatter tube would even grab the petals of target 12 wads occasionally. I really liked my old loader but recognized these design changes were incredibly beneficial
 

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Adjust or cut the choice is yours. Perhaps Carter’s suggestion to cut was taking into consideration loosening the set screw & raising the arm is to complicated for some. Because you would also have to insure adequate clearance between the arm & shot drop tube.
With a level of experience loading 12 ga hulls on a Spolar that far exceeds yours I`m betting I would not find any adjustments "To Complicated" . On my loader loading Gold Medal & Estate hulls have never given a need to adjust the wad guide arms location on the shaft . Cutting the wad fingers length did however greatly increase the life of the fingers by a huge amount of time .
 

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Adjust or cut the choice is yours. Perhaps Carter’s suggestion to cut was taking into consideration loosening the set screw & raising the arm is to complicated for some. Because you would also have to insure adequate clearance between the arm & shot drop tube.
Carter's reasoning was that it would make fingers last longer. He didn't elaborate beyond that.
 

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With a level of experience loading 12 ga hulls on a Spolar that far exceeds yours I`m betting I would not find any adjustments "To Complicated" . On my loader loading Gold Medal & Estate hulls have never given a need to adjust the wad guide arms location on the shaft . Cutting the wad fingers length did however greatly increase the life of the fingers by a huge amount of time .
Okie you don’t know me nor have any idea of my loading experience. What I said was meant as a general statement & not at a swipe at you personally As I said cut or adjust for now it’s still a free country so feel free to choose. Can’t help but recall that if a bike chain had too much slack we could loosen the rear wheel nuts & pull it back to take up the slack. Call it just my nature to use provided OE adjustment methods before taking out a knife.
Let me add that the previous two replies alluded the cutting wad fingers had more to do with extending their life rather than provide required clearances.
 

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Here is the case mouth flare that you can purchase and install on your powder drop tube. Helps everything go in smoothly on the next station. I would like to see that on the primer punch as my older hulls aren't always open enough for the powder drop tube the slide in easily.


Light Automotive tire Bicycle fork Cylinder Gas
 

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You can adjust the height and make it open the mouth up only as much as needed. I try and not stress those hulls anymore than needed. I had bought one for my 12 gauge setup and they actually suggested I get it when I bought the 20 gauge change kit.
 
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