[Ted K.]

I'm having a problem with the ejector on my Citori combo, and I'm hoping someone on this forum has confronted and solved the same problem.

What is happening is that the hammer-like lever in the fore-end iron that actuates the ejector won't stay cocked. As a result, when I open the gun after firing a shell, the ejector slides up slowly and presents the shell, but there is no rapid firing of the ejector, and the shell just sits there.

What I think is happening is that the little locking spur that holds the ejector hammer in the cocked position isn't locking, but I can't figure out why. If I manually push the hammer back, the ejector will lock and perform normally. Once. Then it goes back to its old non-functioning ways.

I have tried the following, without success:

(i) change barrels from the unsingle to the double barrel set

(ii) remove the fore-end iron from the fore-end wood and thoroughly clean and lube all moving parts

(iii) remove the receiver from the stock and thoroughly clean and oil everything, particularly the two little rods that protrude at times from the curved part of the front of the receiver.

Has anyone run into this? Any ideas?

Thanks.

Ted K.

 

[wireguy]

up

 

[GunDr]

If it will cock manually, then the problem lies with either the striking surface of the ejector hammer beibg worn or the backside of the ejector extention being worn....maybe both.

When the gun is assembled, and closed, the ejector assemble is retracted into the bbl. As it moves in, the backside of the ejector assembly pushes back against the ejector hammer. When fully closed, the ejector assy should have pushed the ejector hammer far enough to allow the ejector hammer sear to rotate up into position and lock the hammer.

Doug

 

[Shooting Coach]

Remove forend wood, and inspect ejector sear to insure presence and operation of ejector sear spring. If the spring and sear work normally, hold iron onto barrel assy'. Push ejectors into barrel with soft tool, like screwdriver handle. Ejector sear should engage hammer. If so, assemble barrel to receiver, and hold iron in proper position against forend lug on barrel.

With ejector out, close arm. Ejector hammer should be pushed back enough for ejector sear to engage hammer.

If not, adjust hammer notch depth to accommodate ejector sear.

If you are unable or unwilling to get into this, there are several great Browning techs on this site.

 

[Ted K.]

A little further experimentation shows that if the ejector hammer is cocked manually (using the butt end of a screwdriver to force it back), the sear locks and everything works normally the first time the gun is fired (with a snap cap).

But if, after firing, the gun is broken open and then closed, the hammer is not locked back and the ejector will rise when the gun is re-opened so that the shell is lifted, not ejected. Thus clearly the sear is not engaging against the hammer if the gun is opened in the normal way, but the sear is capable of locking the hammer back if the hammer is pushed back far enough, i.e, with the screwdriver butt.

Note that this problem appears regardless of which barrel set I use (it's a combo), so it's not the ejector slide which is at fault.

All of this suggests that the sear or the hammer needs to be milled a small amount to let the sear engage.

BUT

when this problem first presented itself, it happened to the UPPER ejector. After I started fiddling with it, at first the problem went away. Then the problem reappeared on the LOWER ejector, which is where it is now.

AND, FWIW, the gun is almost brand new - maybe 2,000 shells through it, probably less. Certainly the problem wasn't there for the first 1,000 shells. It seems to have appeared after I switched to a new forearm wood and then switched back to the original forearm wood, in all cases using the original forearm iron.

I note that this problem could be caused by the ejector trip rod sneaking forward as the gun is closed. That would prevent the sear from engaging. It also might explain how the problem would switch from top to bottom. But I don't know what would cause that (the sneaky trip rod) to happen or switch sides, and I don't see any evidence of it, other than it's a perfect explanation of the problem.

It's a mystery . . . .

Any more ideas?

Ted K.

 

[Ted K.]

I take it back. The sneaky trip rod explanation doesn't wash. If that were the problem, then pushing the ejector down when the barrel is off the receiver would set the hammer, and that doesn't happen.

Ted K.

 

[GunDr]

Those trip rods generally do not move very easily, so having one slip forward is highly unlikely.

As shooting coach posted above, remove the forend wood and install the forend iron, keeping pressure on it so it doesn't pop off. You then can see a very clear picture on how the system "should" work.

When you were swapping wood around, were you also swapping out the forend latch assys...or

Did you have only one gun and TWO sets of wood.

doug