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Try not screwing the bottles down so tight. Just lightly seat them.
 

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I use a "G", not an "H", but I get the same problem, particularly if I do a lot of reloading without performing routine maintenance.

Take the charge bar out and clean all of it's sides, as well as the "channel" it travels in. Any powder residue or gunk of any kind can cause it to stick.

Also, although I haven't found this, I guess if you have a lot of reload cycles on the charge bar it could be worn enough to get cocked in the channel. Just a thought.

ajc
 

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Get a Pattern Control powder baffle with the spring in it. Do what ajc says also.
Gamaliels sells the baffles. I have never had a bar stick after I put one on.
 

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In addition to what ajc said look at the powder and shot washers in the bar.

There ahould be a brass and a rubber washer in the powder side and only a rubber one in the shot side.

The brass washer goes withe the dimpled side down. Keep a few of each on hand.

Mec has an excellent service dep't if you need them.

Bill
 

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After you clean it and check for burrs, apply a little past wax to the bar, it will reduce friction. Also install a mec powder washer between the bottle and the press, that will stop the powder leakage. HMB
 

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Apparently, MEC put out a service bulletin to not use the powder baffle b/c of inconsistent powder drops...I had one installed in my 9000HN and took it out. Save yourself alot of grief with sticking factory bars and messing with bushings, go buy the universal charge bar, and your hassles are over....they work great, just keep the bottles loosen off slightly !!
 

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My 650 was doing the same thing. I put an additional spring on the other side and now it binds no more.
 

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Willyo, I think the brass washer has to have the dimples have to be up so they can seat into the rubber washer. But yes I would check that brass washer because it did slide from where it was suppose to be and got wedged between the frame and the bar. It happens
 

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Sometimes a shot pellet will be sheared in the normal operation of the downstroke. If a piece of pellet gets lodged in the right spot, it will tend to jam the bar. Then, the metal washer mentioned above, that goes in the powder side of the bar can wear until it no longer stops powder leakage and can tend to slide between the bar and housing which can cause jams or sticking. It's a very good idea to change out the rubber washers and the metal washer every once in a while, perhaps annually if you load many, many shells. At least examine them and replace if wear is obvious......breakemall....Bob Dodd
 

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My adjustable bar was giving me fits.

The rubber pad that slides onder the shot bottle to make things work smooth as glass,

WAS getting pellets pushed into it, wich would bind up big time. I put the zinc spacer in and troubles so far have gone away.

I have seen almost all new MEC bars have some type of white plastic/nylon/rubber at the shot bottle, that would be my first check!

AL
 

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I do not use a bushing on the shot bottle. Adding spacers to the spring anchor helps, as does the PC powder baffle. I like witness marks, too.
 

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I suspect that the spilling powder has nothing to do with the bottles or a baffle. When the bar sticks, the shell plate drops, then the bar slides over. The powder drop tube is out of the hull as powder drops out of it.

I fixed mine by hooking a couple of the big #64 rubber bands around the base of the shot bottle and the far end of the charge bar. I have the adjustable so the knob on the end holds the rubber band under it well. Problem solved. A little extra pull along the centerline of the charge bar rather then trying to torque it around from the back works well.
 

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reddottm1........Re-read the subject line.

This is a thread about a Mec 9000 charge bar sticking.

Where do you see anything about anyone asking about a different brand of reloader?

Hauxfan!
 

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Had the problem as well. The other guys are right about keeping everything clean as well. The rubber washers can wear, and allow a pellet to get stuck under the bar, and cause additional drag.
After several tries to fix it, went to hardware store & found a return spring that was a little stronger. Problem solved.
 

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In my case the weld that attaches the tool carrier to the center post had a tiny crack in it and it would cause the bar to cock slightly and then release when the stroke was almost home. I was getting nearly double charges in some hulls and almost nothing in the next. It was a Mec 9000H. JRM
 
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